Five years ago, Isabel Marant started a men’s line because she kept spotting guys wearing pieces from her Étoile women’s line. Neither genderless nor identical, the men’s collection now stands on its own but in complete rapport with the French cool-girl staples Marant has been turning out for nearly three decades.
“There are different personalities, but it’s really about dressing certain kinds of cool guy every day, in a really spontaneous way,” the designer offered in a dual showroom interview with Kim Bekker, the artistic director for her men’s and women’s collections and her right arm for more than a dozen years. Not surprisingly, they’re so in sync by now they can finish each other’s sentences.
For fall, the men’s line revisits house classics, injecting freshness through color, tweaked proportions and plenty of texture, an exercise in hybridization that feels like Paris by way of some underground scene in Berlin or Brighton. Baggy cropped jeans or ample, low-slung cargos might pair with a slightly shrunken, fluffy cable knit and an electric blue vinyl bomber, or maybe a slouchy quilted jacket. Boxy knits skew preppy-adjacent, but with a little stretch thrown in. Jeans with Navajo-inspired embroidery might pair with a duffle transformed by faux fur. A hot orange parka-slash-canyoner has plenty of crossover appeal.
Marant and Bekker said their aim for this season was to do “something fun and comfortable without overthinking things.” On that count, they succeeded.
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