It’s cocktail hour – so put a flower in it

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Pimm’s isn’t Pimm’s, in the truest sense, without a scattering of borage – that starry-blue, cucumber-scented flower that Charles Dickens declared, “[made] a world of difference” to his meticulously crafted summer cups. But borage is just one of many edible blooms that can bring colour and flavour to cocktails.

At Fortnum & Mason’s smart new cocktail bar, 3’6, rum highballs are topped with jewel-coloured violas, tiny velvety flowers with a subtle taste of mint; at Lyaness and the Mandarin Oriental’s Aubrey bar the garnish of choice is the damson-coloured red amaranth, a pom-pom-like flower with a nutty flavour and a slight bitterness.

Thyme flowers are great in a mint julep

Acid-yellow fennel flowers bring an aniseedy pop to the fruity Red Brick Fizz at the new Gothic Bar in King’s Cross; and at The Lanesborough’s Library Bar they’ve created a mixological garden-in-a-glass, crowning a grassy cachaça cocktail with marigolds, violas, alyssum and an edible butterfly. The bestselling Ice Book (Indiana University Press) by American cocktail whizz Camper English shows edible flowers suspended in crystal-clear spheres of ice – for best results, he recommends using the dedicated ice-sphere moulds by Dexas Iceology. “And remember to give the mould a shake before freezing to release air trapped between the petals.”

The cocktail list at Simon Rogan’s Windermere restaurant Henrock is a riot of edible flowers that have been foraged locally or grown on Rogan’s farm in Cartmel. “Begonias, gorse, cornflowers, anise hyssop, scented pelargoniums, oxalis, violas, nasturtiums, roses and dandelions are only a few of the flowers we use,” says bar manager Andreas Grammatikopolous. “All their colours and flavours allow us to create beautiful and tasty drinks.” Sitting on the terrace overlooking Lake Windermere, you can sip whisky highballs topped with minty perilla flowers, and Piña Coladas infused with coconutty gorse. There’s a purple basil sour garnished with apple-y sunset oxalis, and a lemonade scented with cucumber, saffron and rose petals.

Petersham Nurseries sells an edible flower seed collection including cornflowers, marigolds and heartsease (£15, in store only). “Growing your own is often the best way to go, especially if you want some of the more short-lived, quick-cropping annuals like cornflowers,” says director of horticulture Thomas Broom-Hughes. “Then you can also be sure they are unsprayed and pesticide-free.”

For a big hit of perfume, he suggests scented pelargoniums, “especially Attar of Roses, which has a wonderful Turkish delight scent. Clove pinks also have a lovely spicy note.” If you like it a bit less blousy, herb flowers can also be good, he says: “Thyme flowers are great in a Mint Julep. Basil flowers would bring a nice spiciness to a strawberry Daiquiri.”

Petersham Nurseries edible flower seed collection, £15 (in store only)

Mixed edible flowers sourced by Natoora, from Sean at Good Earth Growers in Saltash, Cornwall

Always pick blooms in the early morning or evening when the flowers are at their most potent, he says, “and pick a whole stem, rather than just the head of the flower as this will help the plant to regenerate flowers quicker.”

Lavender is a great pairing with juniper – try adding a sprig to a G&T (but no more or its resinous, floral scent can risk overpowering everything). Shocking red, yellow and orange nasturtiums add a wonderful pop of colour. Highly scented flowers like lavender or geranium can also be used to make flavoured sugar syrups for mixing in drinks – you’ll find some tips on flavouring syrups in my book The Cocktail Edit (Quadrille).

If you prefer your petals off-the-shelf, chef’s favourite Westlands in Worcestershire does a range. Specialist greengrocer Natoora also sells a seasonal selection including marigolds, fennel flowers, cornflowers, borage and nutty, pink Japanese buckwheat flowers – all of which come from Good Earth Growers, an organic grower in Cornwall. “Every 11th bed on the farm is planted with edible flowers that attract pollinators and beneficial insects,” says Natoora’s Frideswide O’Neill. “The farm’s founder Sean considers them part of a regenerative approach to farming.”

Not long now till 6 o’clock – time to go raid the garden.

@alicelascelles