It’s Game On In This Landmark California Surf City

Jack O’Neill Restaurant in Santa Cruz is named in honor of the legend who helped make surfing a really big deal, a guy whose life was all about the ocean. That’s what makes one of the land-based highlights on the menu so intriguing.

Meat the chef

Gustavo Trejo had a rock solid resume before landing at this hotel restaurant a few years ago. After discovering the rich resources available from local farmers, ranchers and fisherfolk, he became determined to showcase those edible gems.

Like many farm-to-table dining establishments, Jack O’Neill salutes a long list of hard-working purveyors. The lineup is diverse, from Big Sur Salts and Far West Fungi to olive oil made with great care for generations by the Sciabica family.

Trejo struck up a special relationship with the owners of Corvus Farms and arranged for enough eggs to be produced for the busy breakfast and brunch programs. That collaboration eventually led to something unexpected in a seafood-driven city: the introduction of a featured game dish to the menu.

We’re not talking about venison or elk, but niche products such as quail, rabbit and heritage breeds of duck.

“At first, guests were hesitant to order some of those dishes, but our staff talked them through the process and soon, we were selling out,” Trejo said in a recent phone interview.

The ever-changing game option is seasonally driven. For instance, diners won’t see rabbit back on the menu until spring. But in the meantime, the kitchen enjoys playing with the Pekin ducks raised on the farm. “This time of year, we do a lot of confit,” Trejo said, adding that preserving the product is important. “We know all the work that goes into raising these animals. The last thing we want to do is waste anything.”

During a recent dinner, the duck cacciatore was magnificent. Rich, savory sauce swimming with shredded duck, the perfectly seasoned preparation had a slightly smoky flavor. Served on creamy polenta, this hearty dish was as warming as a O’Neill wetsuit on a December day.

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Back to Jack for a sec…

Before heading to a meal at Jack O’Neill Restaurant, it’s essential to pay a visit to the city’s Surfing Museum, which is located on a bluff overlooking the wave-catching hot spot known around the globe as Steamer Lane.

In this small, but info-packed exhibit, visitors get a crash course in how the unlikely practice of climbing onto a board to ride rolling waves became an international obsession for many and a massive business opportunity for some.

There are vintage photos of diehard surfers braving winter temps in wool. You can practically see their teeth chattering. When Jack O’Neill moved to the area in the 1950s, he couldn’t stay out of the water. It drew him in. But brrr, even in the relatively mild coastal California winter months, the water was bone-chilling.

His efforts to surf year-round eventually led to the development of the modern wetsuit. He also trademarked the term Surf Shop and O’Neill remains at the top of the heap for outdoor clothing and all things related to surfing. Jack O’Neill was a true pioneer.

Of course, there’s seafood

At his namesake restaurant, the eclectic fare includes plenty of crowd-pleasers including outstanding crab cakes and chowder made with a shellfish velouté. The excellent octopus starter features celery root and carrots dressed in an ink-infused vinaigrette. Very creative.

The seared scallops on a savory bed of Beluga lentils got some stiff competition from the meaty wild mushrooms on the lovely plate.

Whenever possible, available, a fresh local catch is delivered by a fishing vessel name Gracie.

What makes all of these dishes even more meaningful is the dramatic view of the Pacific from the wall-to-wall windows. We’re guessing Jack would’ve approved.

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Read Jack O’Neill’s obituary in The New York Times and watch this short tribute: