Jacquemus, Now Nike-Approved, Opens ‘New Era’ in Provence

ARLES, France — Jacquemus returned to his native Provence on Monday to reveal his latest collection on top of a mountain of salt at a mine in the Camargue lowlands.

Inspired by his own upcoming wedding, founder Simon Porte Jacquemus sought to evoke a blank slate for the future with a strict palette of white and beige, and styled looks with veils and long trails of white flowers. The collection reinforced the brand’s now well-established codes, with summery occasionwear like strappy linen dresses and breezy suits, workwear-inspired menswear, beach totes and geometric minibags.

While Jacquemus used to participate in Paris Fashion Week’s official schedule, since his 2018 menswear debut off-calendar, out-of-town runways have become somewhat of a signature. Romps through the French countryside or alongside the ocean in Oahu, Hawaii have allowed Jacquemus to hammer home a sunny brand message with memorable, social media-ready moments even while gravitating to a relatively seasonless approach to design. The luminous salt mine setting was a way to bring the brand back to his native Provence while staying away from clichés, the designer told reporters.

Jacquemus has come a long way since his last Provence show in a lavender field in 2019, a show which secured his reputation as a fashion storyteller and sped his transition from up-and-comer to household name.

During a global pandemic that hammered sales for the broader fashion industry, global interest in the 32 year-old designer’s work continued to catch fire — as did sales of his Chiquito bags. The brand is on track to reach 2022 sales of €200 million, according to an industry source.

“Really the brand has exploded. We have three buildings in Paris now,” Jacquemus said.

The brand’s upcoming collaboration with Nike could push awareness to even greater heights. Sneakers, socks, and gloves from his tie-up with the sportswear giant made their way onto the runway Monday, although most items aren’t set to be revealed before the collection drops on Jacquemus’ website Tuesday. A second drop is set to follow in Nike’s global network of stores.

Jacquemus plans to keep working with Nike as part of an ongoing partnership through the 2024 Olympic Games in Paris, the designer revealed.

A new chief executive hired from Puig’s Paco Rabanne label, Bastien Daguzan, said the brand was readying itself for a “new era”— exploring opportunities offered by the brand’s newfound scale while solidifying its positioning with a faster pace of communications.

Daguzan declined to comment on industry reports that a fragrance deal with Puig was in the works.

Editor’s Note: This article was amended on 28 June 2022. A previous version of this story misstated that Jacquemus had 2021 revenues of $200 million, citing a market source. That is incorrect. The brand is targeting €200 million for 2022, the source said.