Julia y Renata Mexico Spring 2023 Collection

Julia and Renata Franco create based on concepts; last season their collection was about feelings and family. For spring, the designers looked to build and unlock the puzzles around one word: semilla (seed in Spanish). To them, a semilla is a “symbol and manifestation of everything that’s been created.” Contrasting the agave field that served as the venue, the looks in neutral colors exposed exquisite silhouettes in geometric shapes. The sisters like to play with squares and rectangles, and it made sense now that they were now exploring the beginning of things and conceptualizing it through their own visual language.

The Francos always have their client in mind when building a collection. They know their woman is keen on tradition, but also on designs that feel effortless — evident in the simple tops and slouch pants in monochromatic colors that made their way down the catwalk. Deconstruction plays a big role in their aesthetic — a cempasúchil-orange cropped shirt was the perfect example of their affinity for geometry; a trench coat was reimagined as a short dress. The nature-inspired colors continued throughout, like browns reminiscent of chia seeds and cacao, and bold agave greens. Scarves and turbans were woven on a saori loom by textile artist Jimena Rangel.

Their ancestral and organic inspiration culminated in a parade of flowing dresses: asymmetric and off-the-shoulder, and paired with chunky ceramic jewelry pieces by the multidisciplinary artist Renata Morales, were the highlight. The sisters also collaborated with Baku, a brand known for their cool huaraches, for the furry wool sandals that were another highlight; and with the musicians Carlo Filio and Ana Paula Santana to create a piece inspired by the poem “Animal de Invierno” by José Watanabe. The sound of nature couldn’t be a better complement to such canny presentation. Julia y Renata continue to be timeless.