Khaite Resort 2024 Collection

In February, during New York Fashion Week, Catherine Holstein christened her new Mercer Street store with a show for 100 people. The lighting was set to dark and sultry, and the clothes leaned formal. The Khaite woman was on her way to a cocktail party or another occasion that called for tailoring. The vibe may have been downtown, but it wasn’t undone, rather the overall effect was of untouchable, arch glamour.

Resort is the moment to explore the more laid-back aspect of the brand—the Katie Holmes in the cashmere bra and matching cardigan side of Khaite. The lofty showroom just north of SoHo has a corner dedicated to multiply cashmere—some of it in new super-chunky hand-knits this season—and on the racks there’s a group of impressive sweater dresses, machine knit on the horizontal, not the vertical, which gives them a substantial, but springy feel. A stretch jersey henley bodysuit worn with high-waisted leather pants just might be the star of the season; it’s sexy in the offhand way of that virally famous cashmere bra.

You’ll also find the jeans that are a foundational part of the business—the silhouette of the moment is ’90s-ish, full-legged and relaxed—and an array of leather jackets that are unmistakably cool. A group of silk twill pieces in a souvenir print with depictions of New York City landmarks was a surprise, a charming one.

As with the fall collection shown in February, there was a strong emphasis on tailoring. Holstein likes an exaggerated shoulder and a defined waist, or a cropped one, and she experimented with military-style buttons on some styles. The coat silhouettes are oversized and commanding. Evening dresses, in contrast, are an exercise in fluidity with fluttering ruffles, and prodigious skirts made from yard-upon-yard of drapey silk georgette. Still glam—she showed them with long gloves in this lookbook—but softer.