Cooking with locals in Koroni
These days, it seems that you can’t turn a corner without seeing Greece in the news – whether it’s for being ranked as producing the number one olive oil worldwide, an incredible archeological discovery or as the subject of a new travel and cooking show- Greece is everywhere these days!
As I have done on several occasions before, I spoke with Maria Loi, the prolific chef, author, entrepreneur, Mediterranean Diet guru and host of the new PBS series, The Life of Loi, who shared her passion and excitement for Koroni as THE gastrotourism destination in her beloved Greece..
The town of Koroni in Messenia may be the origin point of the Mediterranean Diet, and in Chef Maria Loi’s words, “the epicenter of the Mediterranean Diet.” Before we dig into the incredible gastronomy of this emblematic community, let me set the stage: Koroni is a majestic town with a colorful landscape, situated along the side of a hill, where a towering Venetian castle was erected and still stands today as a monument to its long history.
Located by the Mediterranean Sea, Koroni reaps all the benefits of the climate, providing for a veritable agricultural goldmine, as the land is covered in olive groves, fields, and forests full of nature’s bounty. The town’s agricultural production is based on traditional methods to preserve and pass down vital components of the local identity to its next generation. Koroni’s fertile land produces olives, in particular the world renown “Koroneiki” variety (named after Koroni), olive oil, wine, raisins, figs, wheat, vegetables, legumes, herbs and dairy products, as well as poultry, sheep and goats – all staples of the Mediterranean Diet.
Fortress of Koroni
Koroni was honored by UNESCO as an emblematic community for the Mediterranean Diet, and it’s quite easy to understand why. The people of this town uphold the traditions of generations past, relying on the land and sea for their food, preparing and preserving it in the same way that it was done hundreds – even thousands – of years ago. The people of Koroni also value sharing highly – they don’t just sit down at a table to consume, they eat together, socialize together, and tell stories about life’s joys and challenges together – elements as fundamental as the diet itself and an integral part of the Mediterranean lifestyle.
So, what makes the diet of Koroni so iconic? It all starts with olives. Koroneiki olives are perhaps the most common Greek olives used in the production of olive oil, due to their high yield and even higher phenolic (antioxidant) content.
The residents of Koroni use Koroneiki olive oil and olives with just about everything they consume. It’s a must to know that they eat what’s available to them seasonally: the freshest wild greens (horta in Greek), incredible beans, whole grains, and some of the most beautiful and flavorful produce you can find. They pair this plant-forward lifestyle with small amounts of animal protein – often from the sea nearby, and sometimes from the land – most predominantly chickens and roosters, but occasionally sheep and goats.
For locals, food is not just a means of nutrition. It also plays a central role in the social gatherings that bring them closer to each other. Food is celebrated in folk music and the stories, proverbs and adages of oral folk tradition. Starting from religious festivals, carnivals and festivities, Koroni seems to be celebrating all year round.
One of the most notable festivals is the Navarinia celebration, which occurs every year in mid-October. This incredible event celebrates the epic battle of 1827, when the Greeks were freed from the impending conquest by Ottoman Empire and Egyptians. Navarinia is an amazing celebration of freedom filled with music, culture and cuisine.
Like most of Greece, you can find beautiful beaches here, but that’s not why you come to Koroni – you come for the food, the wine, and the overall experience – not to be matched anywhere in the world. There are plenty of incredible restaurants lining the streets and waterfront here, but the best advice is to find the tiny tavernas on the side streets, with hardly any signage – just make sure you ask for beans and wild greens.
Here, you get to be immersed in the truest form of Mediterranean culture and cuisine – the real Mediterranean way of living. For more details on the Mediterranean way of living, check out this link to the Harvard Gazette’s interview with Professor Walter Willet, world renown Mediterranean Diet expert.
And while Koroni has much to offer, the surrounding areas of Messenia are full of activity too! Ancient Messenia has many historic sites to offer for your favorite history buff, such as the Palace of Nestor. Voidokilia, or “The Belly of the Ox” is a can’t miss destination perfect for meditation. And don’t forget Koroni’s sister town, Methoni, which is also full of culture and history.
Costa Navarino
On the other side of the peninsula, you can find a unique set of properties, unlike anywhere else in the world – the world renowned Costa Navarino, where you can indulge in the height of sustainable luxury, with some of the finest amenities. Whether you’re looking to spend quality time with your loved ones, or enjoy world class dining with nature’s finest local offerings, Costa Navarino has something for everyone, even the most discerning of guests. Chef Loi loves to visit the biodynamic gardens at Costa Navarino and cooking with the local people. One of her favorite places to dine there is at one of their restaurants, Barbouni, where you can enjoy the freshest seafood imaginable.
The bottom line is this: no matter where you go in Greece, if you’re looking for a quintessentially Mediterranean experience, one of the must-visit locations is Messenia, and at its heart, Koroni, the epicenter of the Greek-Mediterranean Diet.
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