One of Monisha Jaising’s strengths is how uncompromising she is in the devotion to singularity. She is someone you would call a solid designer with crystal-clear focus and, as a result, cuts through the noise with clothes that are loud in their sensualism.
She knows her female clients and what makes them feel sexy, an understanding that has seeped into her design language, approach and personality, which oft-times opens her up to varying degrees of reactions.
From the inspiration note uniformly embedded in “tropical island wedding” for over two decades now to the opening first looks, featuring Jaising’s famed kurtis with plunging necklines inching toward a range of tunic-trouser combos in chikankari and brocade, sarees full of liquid lightness and shimmer, draped gowns with nipped waists and embellished crop tops, it was a collection honing on a different kind of decadence. It chimed well with the sense of optimism creeping into fashion this season; provocative in a very agency-driven way and/or celebrating the joy of dressing and going out and having a good time. You get to decide what works for you.
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Namrata Joshipura’s collection. Pics/Satej Shinde
Namrata Joshipura
After taking a leave of absence for a couple of seasons, the Namrata Joshipura brand, adored for its athletic allure and sexiness of detail, is back with a bite.
Even before the invention of the modern brassiere in 1914, women have been groomed to keep their undergarments hidden. For many years, exposing one’s bra in public had a sleazy reputation, and definitely not something most women turned to. At the First Order show, Joshipura seemed to be in the mood to explore this debate around the breast armour but more from a point of view of sartorial deconstruction of deeply established fetishist ideas of the femme fatale.
Hemlines became longer, fabrics got tougher, and with a few detours seen via bias cut and draped blouses and dresses, the hourglass silhouette served as the hero of the collection. It came built in with revealing backs and cut-away detailing, amplified with sheer and iridescent surface textures and fringe embellishments. The designer said she wanted to create an immersive experience that celebrates the beauty and sophistication of modern design while also looking towards the future.
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Sparkle-dusted corsets and bustiers and breastplate-like blouses and jumpsuits (brand’s signature) kept popping up throughout the showcase. As a female writer watching the show from the sidelines, the recurring sight of sequinned-crusted bras didn’t at all feel oversexualising or costume-y. Rather it served as a reminder of being proud of our bodies, and power of the body in control of what you want to expose or don’t expose — and also renewing that gym membership (maybe?).
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