Lights, bites and delights in Montreal

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No matter how many times you visit, it is the getaway gift that keeps on giving.

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Everyone knows that Montreal is a great Canadian travel treat, what with its vibrant nightlife, festivals, restaurant scene, culture and history.

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No matter how many times you visit, there’s always something new to discover — even if it’s centuries old but new to you. A recent short visit to an old fave introduced a few new-to-me things and a renewed commitment to return often to unearth more!

LIGHTS

Montreal by night is a city with sights to behold. A fun way to zoom out and get everything in your frame is aboard the Montreal Observation Wheel (lagranderouedemontreal.com) in the Old Port. Opened in 2017, it is Canada’s tallest such structure, offering views of the St. Lawrence River and city from 60 metres above. Its 42 cabins have 360-degree-view windows and a temperature system that keeps guests warm in winter (hallelujah!) and cool in summer.

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For a view of the wheel itself lit up in front of Old Montreal, go across the illuminated Jacques Cartier Bridge to Parc Jean-Drapeau.

For an even higher perspective of the lights of Montreal, head to the Kondiaronk lookout in Mount Royal Park, which was designed by Frederick Law Olmsted, who co-designed New York’s Central Park. The view of the city and bridges from the terrace at the Mount Royal welcome centre is spectacular.

One of the newest shining attractions in Montreal is The Ring, a 30-metre-wide steel circle suspended above the staircase to the Esplanade Place Ville Marie, in a direct line from the Queen Elizabeth Hotel to Mount Royal. It’s lit up nightly with an illumination that mirrors that of the Mount Royal Cross — which you can get in your Ring selfie if you angle yourself just right.

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And, of course, the city’s annual Nuit Blanche (next set for March 2, 2024, nuitblanchemtl.com) offers an all-nighter of lights, music, food, fun rides and art. It’s part of the city’s winter celebration Montreal en Lumière (which marks its 25th edition Feb. 22 to March 3, 2024).

Remember, with the right clothing, anything is doable!

BITES

Montreal is more than bagels, smoked meat and poutine (although of course one must experience all of these tastes). There’s just so much more. We enjoyed an authentic Swiss fondue dinner at l’Auberge Saint-Gabriel (aubergesaint-gabriel.com) in Old Montreal. Built in 1688, it’s the oldest inn in North America and was the first to be granted a liquor licence under British rule. With stone and wooden beams and leather chairs, it oozes Old World charm while serving a fine dining experience.

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For a more modern taste, the Le Central gourmet hall (lecentral.ca/en) opened in 2019 at the corner of Sainte-Catherine Street and Saint-Laurent Boulevard, featuring 25 kiosks hosting a variety of local food icons. Pop in for a lively, fun atmosphere for lunch, dinner and/or drinks.

The Italian restaurant Moccione (moccione.com) in the Villeray neighbourhood offers a homemade pasta-focused menu that changes seasonally depending on the availability of fresh ingredients. Take time on the way there and back to ogle at the outer staircases on many Montreal homes. In the mid-19th century, builders determined that having common stairways outside made multi-level properties more heat efficient – we can attest it also makes them look stunning.

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Bring your appetite to hip Janine Cafe (janinecafe.ca) in Verdun where the portions are large and delicious, and the homemade pastries are works of art. It’s located on Wellington Street, named by Time Out magazine as the coolest street in the world for its 250-plus businesses and lively vibe that’s accentuated in the summer by the prohibition of vehicles.

DELIGHTS

Local singer Leonard Cohen, who died in 2016, lives on in a 21-storey-tall tribute. The 10,000-square-foot mural, entitled Tower of Songs, depicts Cohen in his signature fedora with this hand on his heart – which glows red at night. Visit his memory on Crescent Street, which is also home to a vibrant nightlife scene.

And speaking of the city’s musical history, it’s no secret that John Lennon and Yoko Ono held their Bed-in for Peace from May 26-June 2, 1969 in Fairmont The Queen Elizabeth Hotel’s Suite 1742, where they also wrote Give Peace a Chance. The hotel has commemorated the event by decking the suite out with multimedia installations, interactive elements and art dedicated to the famous couple. You can watch videos on an old-school TV and hear Lennon interviews when you pick up a dial phone. A cabinet art piece inspired by their office in New York City has fun elements behind the doors such as photos, menus from their stay and the security log book noting complaints from fellow guests who were not happy to be a part of history.

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In addition to the private main bedroom, a bed now sits under the window where the couple had moved the mattress and the words Hair Peace Bed Peace decorate the glass.

Guests who don’t have the opportunity to rent the suite can still live a part of that historic moment. The hallway outside 1742 shows the newly-married aspect of the bed-in on one side while the other depicts media attention they had sought and received. And no worries if you are only just passing through the hotel lobby as the bed-in is memorialized there too.

The hotel itself (fairmont.com/queen-elizabeth-montreal) is in a great location downtown, steps from the shops and restaurants of Sainte-Catherine Street and with direct access to the ‘Underground City’ (similar to Toronto’s PATH system) and the train station. If you can’t get a suite on the 17th floor, ask for a room with a view of The Ring.

IF YOU GO

Find out more at mtl.org and bonjourquebec.com.

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