Long live pinot noir, the ‘wine of kings’

Cabernet sauvignon might be known as the “king of wine,” but everybody who knows about wine knows that pinot noir is the actual “wine of kings.” It’s probably due in part to the fact that the Champagne region in France — known for its pinot noir, which is one of the grapes used in the production of champagne — was part of the personal royal estate of the French kings, and partly because the only official “coronation” cathedral is in Reims. If you don’t get crowned there, you aren’t truly considered the King of France, just ask the Plantagenets.

Let’s face it, the last couple of years have been problematic for California wines — especially from areas not swept clean by coastal fog. Wildfires have caused quite a bit of issues, including in some cases, the suspension of an entire vintage. But like I keep telling my East Coast relatives, California is a huge state, and thankfully many areas have not suffered from the fire and brimstone. Luckily, Marin County, especially western Marin County, is one of those regions that has been left relatively unscathed, which makes the assembling of Marin County standouts in pinot noir quite the enjoyable task.

Long live the king, perhaps. But, let’s remember the only wine region in California that got a visit from then Prince Charles, now King Charles, was West Marin.

• 2019 Dutton-Goldfield, Devil’s Gulch, Marin County, $78

With the death of the great Sean Thackrey, somebody had to step into the gulch left behind. Thackrey’s Andromeda pinot noir (sourced from Devil’s Gulch) might have been the best Marin County pinot noir ever produced — until now. Dutton-Goldfield picks up where Thackrey left off, but truth be told, it has been making this pinot for a few years now, but it is hard to get a hold of. Deeper and richer than most pinot noirs, it is a mouthful of black fruit: black raspberry, black cherry, and, of course, blackberry. Spice and light smoke hint more towards flavored tobacco and less towards out-of-control wildfire. Simply sublime in every way, up to and including the price.

• More information at duttongoldfield.com.

• 2016 Hale Mary, Last Stop Vineyard, Russian River, $60

Anthony and Mary Bourke began making Russian River pinot noir in their garage in Marin County. Production has since moved to Sebastopol. This wine is sourced from the Last Stop vineyard (owned by Silver Oak/Twomey Cellars) close to Forestville near the literal last stop on the old Petaluma-Santa Rosa railway. The 2016 fruit is also beyond the scope of any of the wildfires that affected many producers in subsequent vintages. This pinot has all the black fruit one would expect from the Russian River area — blackberry, loganberry and black cherry — melded with an elegant acidity and loamy tannins exuding a sensuality that eludes much pinot noir from California. Low production (266 cases) makes it hard to find outside of its website, but several Marin County restaurants feature it on their lists.

• More information at halemarywine.com.

• 2019 Cazadero Winery, Parmeter King Ridge Vineyard, Fort Ross-Seaview, $59

Produced by longtime Fairfax couple Frank and Ronita Egger in Healdsburg (although technically their home in Fairfax is both a bonded and licensed winery) this wine dances with red fruit elegance. Not an overt punch in the face, but more Burgundian “sweet science.”  Red raspberry, strawberry and red currant all pirouette delicately with a bright minerality and soft tannins. It’s light brick-red color is lovely and its 14.5% alcohol adds to the easy drinkability. Good with food wouldn’t do it justice. More like great with food. In fact, you probably could just skip the food. Discounts are offered on mix and match cases, and it is widely available at specialty markets throughout the county.

• More information at cazaderowinery.com.

• 2019 Bon Voyage, Wines That Deliver, Stubbs Vineyard, Marin County, $42