Marcelo Burlon County of Milan Spring 2024 Menswear Collection

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For cognoscenti of the development of contemporary streetwear from niche pursuit into the prime pop uniform of our time, Marcelo Burlon is both a key figure and brand. If you don’t know why, then get Googling. Quiet for a few seasons as he focused on ripening the fruits of his insight—his foundation, his music, his lifestyle—Burlon now appears to be girding his loins to re-enter the fashion fray. Just last month he opened a standalone store in the city that was the crucible of his brand, and then last week revealed an excellent new collaboration with Levi’s.“I’m going to be spending a lot more time back in Milan,” said Burlon when we met, raising an eyebrow mysteriously.

The scene that Burlon helped birth is now much more developed than print t-shirts and grail sneaker collaborations. Much of this collection was built from top-to-toe looks. Not tailoring exactly: instead, a less rarified and more visually interesting version of it. Dyed faux-denim leather and a few intensely patterned pairings were presented with old-school notch collars. However, matching kimono/liner jackets and pants in burnt orange, matching utility vests and pants in indigo print or camel, and a matching cardigan and pant in checkerboard patches of mixed knit and Burlon-blue jersey were arguably more progressive pieces; streetwear is growing up, but in its own direction.

Having cashed out, Burlon no longer has much senior say within New Guards Group. But his brand, which has been lying gently fallow for some time and which clearly has a very talented group of designers, feels underexposed. In an attention economy where consumers’ span of knowledge becomes ever more constricted, Burlon seems ripe for wider rediscovery.

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