Marin County hike peaks where picnic tables replaced missile radar

From the 1950s to the ’70s, San Rafael was home to a set of triangulated sites comprising a missile battery that ultimately housed a Nike-Hercules air defense system. The sites were all part of San Francisco Defense Area Site 93, or SF-93. SF-93L was the missile launch site and now rests under picnic tables and over a skate park at the end of Smith Ranch Road. It overlooks SF-93A, the administrative area, which included housing that later became the site of a substance use recovery center and now stands abandoned.

And then there was SF-93C, the radio control site perched more than 1,000 feet above sea level on the ridge of San Pedro Mountain. It sits at the edge of China Camp State Park, and reaching this point means you’ll also have gained 360-degree views on Marin, from Mount Tamalpais to San Pedro Bay to Novato.

The hike to the former SF-93C begins on Gold Hill Fire Road in what is now the city of San Rafael’s Harry A. Barbier Memorial Park, on the southern slope of San Pedro Mountain. Barbier, whose family has been a presence in San Rafael for generations, served on the city council from 1962 to 1972. The park is bordered by the Black Canyon neighborhood in the Dominican area, and signage along the first part of the trail through stands of eucalyptus warns users that land flanking the fire road is private. The signs also warn users that the eucalyptus remains prone to dropping branches or keeling over, as well.

At the T-intersection just after the start of the trail, you’ll want to keep left.

A persistent but largely gentle uphill grade eventually leaves the eucalyptus behind in favor of the manzanita, oak and madrone that characterize San Pedro Mountain. Along the way, keep a lookout for a long-ago wrecked car resting in a heavily wooded ravine on your left.

The climb lasts for about 1.5 miles, but hikers can give fatigued femoral muscles a break on one of the strategically placed benches overlooking stunning views. At the beginning, this trail is rocky and, according to trail reports, muddy during the rainy season. But along the way, it turns into old pavement, a remnant of its former uses.

At about the mile point, where there’s another split, keep right — every inch of this hike is fire road, so avoid all beckoning single tracks. The last half mile to former SF-93C mostly traverses the ridge along San Pedro Fire Road. Arriving there is a step back in time, thanks to collections of old bits and pieces from the site’s former life that visitors have set up somewhat artistically. There also is an assortment of newer additions to this detritus, mostly beer cans, along with a few picnic tables.

Unfortunately, the day we visited the area, a haze masked some of the features of the gorgeous views. We nevertheless were excited to be able to look down and see the Las Gallinas birding area ponds at the end of Smith Ranch Road, which by no accident is near where SF-93L and -A were sited.

As we then headed back the way we came, a mostly downhill 2.2 miles, sunset was approaching. When we parked where this trail begins, on a quiet street in the Dominican area on a weekday afternoon, we were one of only three cars. On our return, we encountered dozens of people making their way up the trail, and the limited parking was completely full. We concluded that in addition to being a journey back in time, with its western views, Gold Hill Fire Road must also be a major attraction for seeing spectacular sunsets.

• Getting there: From Highway 101 southbound, take exit 454A to Lincoln Avenue, turn left onto Linden Lane, right onto Grand Avenue, and left onto Locust Avenue. From Highway 101 northbound, take exit 452, continue onto Irwin Street, turn right onto Belle Avenue, left onto Grand, and then right onto Locust. At the end of Locust Avenue, on the right, are a few parking spaces just ahead of where the Gold Hill Fire Road begins. There are no facilities. The trail alternates between shade and exposure, so bringing water is advisable. The dog question is mixed: They’re OK on much of this trail, but the last part of it overlaps with China Camp State Park, which prohibits dogs on trails.

Emily Willingham is a Marin science journalist, book author and biologist. You can find her on Bluesky @ejwillingham or Instagram at emily.willingham.phd.