If an artist is someone who has a defined vision and a mastery of their craft, then Mark Kenly Domino Tan might be defined as one. The location of his fall show, in the Statens Museum for Kunst), invites the comparison, as does one of the designer’s starting point, the American painter Georgia O’Keeffe.
“I found an old image [of O’Keeffe] that I printed out many years ago…in my drawer, and I was like, ‘Oh, that cardigan!’ It totally looked like something we were working on at the moment. And then I started diving into the imagery that I could find around her and the environment she was in, and I got this feeling of trying to have a combination of a tailored silhouette, but bringing other traditions of craftsmanship and artisanship into to that kind of tale,” the designer said.
Apart from two ethereal white pleated looks with circular silhouettes that could perhaps be likened to O’Keeffe’s flower paintings, Tan largely abstracted his inspiration and at the same time he broke a bit free. The rigor of a tailored coat, for example, was warmed by the romance of a sky-colored streamer. Vintage-feeling jackets had sleeves made of silky lining fabric. “I think for me, it’s moving a bit out of this kind of storm we’ve been in for a couple of years, and trying to find a new normal way of doing things,” he said. “That’s also why [the collection] is a little more embellished.” (See: a couple of prairie-like skirts with decorative bands.)
O’Keeffe’s 1931 painting, Cow’s Skull with Calico Roses, contrasts the austere and the romantic; similarly the decadence of Tan’s collection this season enhanced the restraint for which he is so well known.
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