Men have lost the art of dressing up to go ‘out out’

Going “out out” has been back for a while, but not all of our wardrobes have gotten the memo. A hybrid working uniform of chinos, Patagonia gilet and desert boots? Perfected. After-hours pizzazz? Not so much. For men, the fear of looking overdressed can quash self-expression and creativity, particularly when it comes to dialling up evening looks. But certain destinations demand another level of smartness.

In London, Boujis, the infamous South Kensington nightclub and former hang-out of royals Harry, Wills and Kate, has reopened as B London, just around the corner from the original site. The mix of Sloaney heritage and new neon-lit cavern with concrete DJ booth is probably not everyone’s shot of tequila, but London’s members-only nightlife is buzzing, care of other recent openings such as Maison Estelle in Mayfair and The House of Koko in Camden.

“It’s better to be overdressed than underdressed — particularly for a night out,” says New York native and Vogue party columnist Zachary Weiss. A brand consultant by day, Weiss epitomises 2023’s newfound appreciation for dressed-up partying. His Instagram is one long montage of snazzy jackets, strong martinis and good times.

“You just have an implicit confidence when you look the part,” he insists. “There’s nothing worse than feeling underdressed in a room of really well-heeled people.” Weiss takes this so seriously that he’ll usually be seen in a statement suit and tie. “It’s a conversation starter.”

So what does dressing to impress look like in 2023? The idea of a party suit might send a shiver down some spines, but for others there’s no greater buzzkill than seeing an interloping work uniform on the dance floor. Remember Michael Gove’s impromptu visit to a nightclub in Aberdeen? It was like watching a Cyberman fuse a circuit, and the stiff navy blue business suit didn’t help.

An evening suit should look ‘naughty’, with confident proportions and a louche cut

On Savile Row, Edward Sexton, notorious tailor to rock aristocracy, is seeing increased demand for jazzy suits from clients who want to paint the town red. The house’s creative director, Dominic Sebag-Montefiore, explains: “It’s 2023 so I encourage all our clients to have a diverse wardrobe. Part of that is having something relaxed for the weekends. Part of that is having something that means business for the boardroom, and yes, part of that is the ‘naughty night out’ suit.”

I agree, an evening suit should look “naughty”, with confident proportions and a louche cut. That could mean you opt for something with strong shoulders and confident lapels, or perhaps an unconventional fabric. Alexander McQueen’s spring/summer 2023 collection is a great reference point, featuring sleek suits with asymmetric lines in luxurious gabardine materials. Elsewhere, Saint Laurent’s SS23 collection has brought shoulder pads back for men, with striking separates in black, shades of taupe and off-white. There’s an adage that black suits look cheap, but the right black suit with a fine cashmere rollneck or even a classic white T-shirt beneath says “lounge lizard” like little else.

Sexton’s spring collection features several designs dedicated to a good time, including a white unstructured chevron-weave blazer, a cream suit with chocolate brown stripes, a dark charcoal suit with a glossy finish and a striking peak lapel jacket in a burgundy silk blend. “If you want to go out, we’d encourage you to go for a suit that makes you look and feel sexy,” says Sebag-Montefiore. “We all look back to Studio 54 as the ultimate reference point for elegant clubbing, and all the men wore good suits.”

What if your evening out is more friend’s 40th in a gastropub, though? Even I would dissuade you from going full disco. Here, breezy shirts and relaxed chore coats come into their own. The chore coat — originally a utilitarian garment for 19th- and 20th-century workers to wear in factories and warehouses — has smartened up in recent seasons and there’s no shortage of brands making sleek examples. A Kind of Guise and Universal Works are both firm favourites.

The Plage Coat, a playful style from London-based shirting brand LEJ, is also a great option. “Rather than cutting them like workwear, which is all boxy and straight, our Plage Coats feature a two-piece sleeve and some shape in the waist, care of a half-belt back,” explains the brand’s founder and designer, Luke Walker. “These features help the jacket to drape, as does the fabrication. This season, we have pieces in washed black and navy linen, which feel very dressy and ‘evening’.”

LEJ also offers matching trousers with either a buttoning or drawstring waist, so you can create a subversive “chore suit” for evenings out if you’re so inclined. “When you’re wearing two things that match, immediately it reads as a suit, even if it’s informal,” Walker adds.

And if you want to really luxe things up, Italian powerhouses Zegna and Brioni make some stunning lightweight overshirts in reassuringly expensive cashmere, merino or glossy linen fabrics. Stay within a palette of traditional tailoring colours, which counterpoint the shirt’s casual look. Try one in camel, tobacco or olive and layer over a black T-shirt or polo and smart black jeans. Finish with proper shoes, too — I guarantee someone will compliment them and they speak to making an effort. Polished black leather penny loafers from a good shoemaker will look infinitely swisher than sneakers, even minimal Scandi ones.

Beyond chore jackets, Walker also has some pointers on choosing a shirt to socialise in. His top tip? “Choose anything that isn’t plain ‘office blue’ or white. That doesn’t mean you need to go crazy, but most men will just see these as office colours.” Walker cites other pastel shades or sophisticated neutrals such as ecru for a chic alternative that isn’t too “out there”. For inspiration, see Drake’s classic Oxford button-downs, which come in a whole array of sunny colours. The informal collar design also helps these to feel like shirts to socialise in, rather than commute in. Alternatively, layer a camp-collar shirt from the likes of YMC, Oliver Spencer or Casablanca (if you’re feeling ritzy) over a long-sleeve mock neck or lightweight crewneck for a pairing that’s not buttoned-up but nevertheless looks put-together.

Don’t underestimate the power of making some small, simple changes to how you show up to socialise. Even swapping your everyday jeans for a good pair of trousers with pleats or neat turn-ups can work wonders. From Boujis to the local boozer, if you’re out of office, make sure your wardrobe is too.

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