Filippo Grazioli is approaching Missoni with a disciplined, restrained eye. His new menswear was in line with this tendency, which favors a relaxed look rooted in ease and spruced up with sporty accents referencing founder Ottavio Missoni’s love of athletics. Presented today in the label’s showroom, the fall collection had a quiet, casual feel, and some interesting introductions of new patterns and graphics.
Grazioli believes that Missoni today has to appeal to broad demographics. “What we’re offering is a wardrobe for a modern man, timeless and ageless, who needs to dress for multiple occasions but favors comfort and versatility above all. And who doesn’t necessarily feel himself wearing bold colors or strong decorative patterns.”
Hence the edited color palette, grounded by black and optical white; for fall it segued into tones of beige, burgundy, and rust. The silhouette was kept fluid. Carcoats, overcoats and three piece evening suits woven in the house’s Raschel pattern had a supple and malleable feel. Mohair cardis in mellow pastels further hinted at coziness and softness.
An innovative twist was introduced in the treatment of denim surfaces, where the zig-zag and fiammato motifs were woven to achieve an undulating tone-on-tone pattern. Elsewhere, at the front of a navy cashmere jumper a needle-punched brushstroke in rainbow colors provided a welcome jolt of energy.
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