Montelobos: Combining Traditional Methods With Modern Vision To Create Exceptional Mezcals

Smoked turkeys and kosher rabbis are not typical subjects for a mezcal discussion but they’re part of the process for understanding the Montelobos experience. The mezcal brand was founded by Iván Saldaña in 2010 and is part of his Casa Lumbre group of spirit brands. The brand has four labels: Espadín, Ensamble, Tobalá and Pechuga — a traditional Espadin made with fruits, herbs, spices and yes, a turkey breast. At the Montelobos palenque in Oaxaca I spoke with Saldaña about his vision for the brand — and how it may never of happened if he wasn’t continually bored with his Phd work.

What started your journey to making mezcal?

I had the luck to be Mexican, I was born in Guadalajara. My passion since I was young was nature and I became a biologist. I wanted to understand how plants cope with difficulties and manage challenges, particularly the evolutionary solutions they have to come up with to succeed. So I went to do a PhD in England at the University of Sussex. All the classes were quite boring, so eventually I proposed to do something with agave because there was very little knowledge at the time. And they said yes! So I had to bring two tons of live agave into England.

Is it difficult to take care of agave in England?

Well they were living better than me. I was in a wet humid basement and they were living in artificial light. Of course on its own agave would die in England but in a greenhouse they work. We studied those plants and now they are in the Millennium Dome. My plants had children and those are the only agave in Europe that started their lives growing there.

How did you move from academia into spirits?

After my PhD I had to decide if I was going to keep doing research. I had an opportunity to go to Switzerland to do postdoc but I was a little bored and I accepted a job in the spirits industry with Pernod Ricard. I became head of new product development. It was a nice five years of learning. I say it was my second Phd.

And then you founded Casa Lumbre.

Our purpose is to bring the very best of Mexico to the world. My biggest interest is agave but I also do Mexican whiskey from corn and Ancho Reyes from chiles. We now have some non-Mexican projects as well including an Irish whiskey.

What led to the creation of Montelobos?

When we came into the market around 2010 the space was still tiny. There were a few mezcals but most were American interpretations. We were one of the first Mexican distillers to bring something to the market. It’s a unique project — a collaboration of tradition with the different view from my understanding of the characteristics of agave.

I do artisanal mezcal, but it’s not traditional. Traditional is amazing, but modern Mexico is about bringing things back and elevating them. Like a chef who learns old recipes but then does fine dining in a new and interesting way. I see myself more like that. Making my own interpretation from my own experience with what was already there — in an appreciative way. The collaboration brings something new and extraordinary. At least that’s the intention.

Did you have trouble selling people on your vision?

During the time I started the deal was simple. You want a mezcal? I make a mezcal. You buy the mezcal, you put your brand on it and you sell it. And you make your profit, whatever it is. And I said no, I don’t want to create a brand like that. I want to get into the kitchen. No, no! Why you got to get in my kitchen? I got rejected by many producers. But when I found my current partners I said I wanted to do a project and it’s going to be successful and long term, but I want to be a part of it. I want to be invited to eat at your table but I want cook the food. My vision combined with your traditional knowledge will make a meal with all of our talent.

The agave fields for Montelobos were farmed organically before the company started. Did that play a part in selecting them?

The historic way way of managing agave was already organic before the agrochemical industry entered. They are using the techniques being used for centuries without the addition of fertilizers, pesticides and herbicides, which are the worst. When I met the growers they had Mexican certification. Today we are certified with the USDA as well as with European and Japanese regulators.

Explain the mezcal you make with the turkey breast.

The Pechuga. It’s traditional in Oaxaca for Day of the Dead and Christmas. You used spices, herbs, fruits and meat in the third distillation. The spices, herbs and fruit are in the liquid and the steam of the alcohol passes through the turkey breast. Every family has its own recipe. It’s always a small production meant for celebration. We do our own carefully crafted version.

Your distillery is also certified kosher. How did that come about?

One of my partners is Jewish and for him kosher is a very important thing. So our processes are kosher which means rabbis have to get involved in sacrificing the turkey and turning on the fires in the distillery. Once the fires are going they can be operated by the distillery.

What do you think of all the American celebrities getting involved in Mexican spirits?*

The motivations that move people to do things are multiple. Some that are incredibly honorable and coming from passion. From an authentic desire to get involved, even if profit is involved. There are others that are not educated, not caring at all, so you have very different approaches. I don’t like to label things automatically just because a celebrity may be involved. I think every project has to be judged on its own terms.

(* Nocheluna Sotol, one of Casa Lumbre’s brands, just launched a partnership with rock musician Lenny Kravitz.)

Montelobos currently has four labels. Do you see more in the future?

We have a series of small runs called ‘Montelobos Experimental.’ I’ve done 25 different formulas with those. Four labels is already a very big universe. I’ve seen brands that have 16 different labels that are obsessed with more things but don’t stay with the message. We want Montelobos to educate in an elevated way. We do a really great level of quality. I would never say anything is the ‘best mezcal in world. but we are in the top, thats for sure. We just brought two labels into U.S. market last year, so I wouldn’t rush it more. We have show what Montelobos is and make people understand it before bringing more things. I’m not saying there is no space for more, but when you’re building a brand that you want to be an experience you have to focus.