N.Hoolywood’s pre-fall look book follows a student’s progression through military school. The photos are vintage, found at a flea market, and the model has painstakingly been worked into the images so as not to stand out. This might seem a counterintuitive approach to what is essentially a marketing/sales tool, but it is an extension of Daisuke Obana’s process of interpreting menswear classics for a digital surveillance age.
The designer, who started out as a vintage dealer, has an extensive collection of military gear that is a constant reference for functional aspects and also, he explained in an email exchange, because “it is still recognized as one of the pillars of the men’s fashion category.” This collection feels heavier on color-blocked activewear than military kits, but there are army-like shirts and, importantly, modish camouflage pieces.
Obana is playing with the idea of standing out and fitting in here; the reveal/conceal binary of fashion. Asked about his use of camouflage, he said it’s an essential part of his work: “It sounds a little depressing, but I think this is a very relaxing and safe [kind of clothing] in a society that is constantly monitored. I think the existence of such clothes is important for this era. When you want to have fun, you have clothes to enjoy, and when you want to take a rest, you have clothes to rest. Yes, it’s best to use fashion properly and enjoy it.” Following this line of thought, Obana is broadening the idea of functionality, moving it away from specific tasks or physical durability and applying it to modes of communication, moods, and lifestyle.
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