New Dining Destinations in Calistoga

The Four Seasons opened across the street from Solage in 2021. The property is divided between long-term residences and rentals and has 85 rooms. The new restaurant struggled to find its footing at first and has since settled down with a full-time chef and sommelier.

I recently sat down with both of them to get a better understanding of how the property is trying to up the ante in this Northern Napa town. All responses have been edited and condensed for clarity. First up is Chef Garcia, his responses are followed by those of sommelier Derek Stevenson.

Liza B. Zimmerman (L.B.Z.): Why did you want to do a prix-fixe at the Four Seasons?

Chef Rogelio Garcia (R.G.): Auro, the fine-dining restaurant at the property, showcases hyper-seasonal cuisine with an emphasis on global influences and technique. The restaurant’s tasting menu offers guests the opportunity to explore the best of local terroir.

L.B.Z.: What is more appealing about it for a chef?

R.G.: For me, a weekly rotating tasting menu allows me to experiment with new techniques and explore new ingredients that showcases a range of what we can create for our guests.

L.B.Z.: What about your past experience as a chef prepared you best to execute this type of multi-course cuisine?

R.G.: The attention to detail and care that the chefs I worked with at Michelin-starred restaurants and learned from has brought me where I am today. Their intensity and creative process was incredibly inspiring to witness as I progressed in the industry.

L.B.Z.: I see that many of the pairings are local wines, do you prefer serving local/Napa wines with your dishes and why?

R.G.: I am a champion of Napa wines as the area has been a source of inspiration for me through my career. Nonetheless, I believe that pairings really depend on what elevates each dish and how we can create a unique sensory experience for our guests.

Now we pass the baton to sommelier Derek Stevenson.

L.B.Z.: Who generally orders large-format bottles?

Derek Stevenson (D.S.): Typically, large-format bottle sales spike right before the holidays. During this time of the year, we see an uptick in large parties and guests looking to celebrate. Our most popular large-format wines are Champagne and high-end Cabernet.

L.B.Z.: Are there particular wines that you are really proud of that were hard to acquire?

D.S.: There are quite a few wines I am proud of on the list, including back vintages of Harlan Estate (2007) and Screaming Eagle (2002), as well as multiple vintages of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, which are highly coveted and limited, even at venues like ours.

L.B.Z.: Do you plan to carry more foreign wines?

D.S.: I plan to continue to grow the wine program in the new year in all aspects with selections from Italy, Spain, South America, Australia and New Zealand. We will also deepen our local selections of varietals beyond Cabernet and Chardonnay.

L.B.Z.: How much latitude do you have to add hyper local bottles to the list?

D.S.: We have the ability to work with local producers and we love to showcase them at the resort. Calistoga is a unique AVA that not only makes outstanding Cabernet, but also many other regional and international varieties. There will be a large push in the new year to expand the width of our local wine.

L.B.Z.: Does the hotel own the Elusa winery and how do you incorporate their wines onto your list?

D.S.: No, Elusa is not owned by the Four Seasons Resort Napa Valley. The winery has a close partnership with the resort and boasts fantastic wine spanning back to 2012.

L.B.Z.: What kinds of tasting and winemaking experiences are offered there?

D.S.: Elusa offers multiple tiers of tastings for both members and non-members. They also host private events and dinners either in their Barrel Room or in the winery itself. Those dinners are often accompanied by Four Seasons’ cuisine as well as attendance by the winemaker.