You’ve seen the image on Instagram. The countless photos of a freightliner’s rusted hull beached inside a sandy cove imprisoned by sapphire water. The wrecked ship on the Ionian Island of Zakynthos is called the MV Panagiotis. Carrying contraband cigarettes, the boat ran aground in a bout of bad weather in the early 1980s while fleeing the Greek Navy. Today, Navagio beach is one of the most photographed spots in Greece, becoming a viral sensation on Instagram. Consequently, overtourism and congestion have plagued parts of this wild rugged island. However, perched on a hill above the cacophony of Tsilivi Beach sits a sanctuary of refinement, Olea All Suite Hotel.
Olea All Suite Hotel is a gem of sophistication, not just on Zakynthos but within the entire chain of Ionian Islands. With its design-forward ambience, extensive wellness facilities, and outstanding food and wine program, it’s the perfect destination for a luxury adults-only (and children over 12) getaway.
If you’re not familiar with the Ionian Islands, you’re not alone. Most Americans head straight for the Cyclades Islands in Greece. While both island groups are beautiful, there are some key differences that make the Ionian Islands, and specifically Zakynthos, a unique and worthwhile destination.
First, the Ionian Islands feature lush landscapes in contrast to the stark white buildings and rocky terrain of the Cyclades. The islands are covered in pine forests, olive groves, and vineyards, and the hillsides are dotted with charming villages and towns.
Another key difference is the beaches. While the Cyclades are known for their stunning, white-sand beaches, the Ionian Islands have a more diverse range of beaches, from rocky coves to long stretches of sand. The water surrounding the Ionians, however, is of the deepest jewel-toned blue found anywhere in the world. If you’re prone to drooling over photos of the Caribbean or South Pacific Seas, the Ionians, emphatically, deliver.
Zakynthos boasts many of Greece’s best beaches and clearest waters. Indeed, the natural setting is a key driver of tourism. Yet, Olea All Suite Hotel has gone out of its way to create an organic architectural landscape that nearly rivals Mother Nature. Nearly.
The hotel’s hillside location allows for a series of tiered pools to tumble towards the horizon. In fact, the cascading water features are the first attribute you’ll notice after checking in and touring the grounds. At least, they were for me when I visited last summer.
Surrounded by gnarled olive trees and flowering lavender bushes, the water blends seamlessly into the vast blue backdrop of the Ionian Sea and swirls around the daytime restaurant and bar or “restobar” Cocoon. The sculptural infinity pool is a stunning feat of design featured prominently on the hotel’s website for good reason: it’s the kind of image you save on Insta, Pinterest, or TikTok under #travelgoals, and it looks as good in real life as on social media.
In fact, many of the property’s 93 suites feature beds, loungers, and covered decks with direct access to the water. Get hot? Jump in. Just woke up and need a quick swim? Jump in. No need to reserve a chair on a deck far away from your guest room. Additional suites with ocean views have private dipping pools. Room choice, of course, comes down to preference. Every suite carries the overarching aesthetic of organic minimalism into its bedding, furniture, and décor. Subtle colors of the earth, sand, clay, and flax feature in the linens and textiles, keeping you calm and grounded.
For guests who prioritize wellness (which is practically everyone nowadays), Olea has a range of activities and facilities for relaxing and rejuvenating. The hotel’s spa is the perfect place to unwind after a day navigating the island’s curvy roads to far flung beaches in a stick shift, notably for Americans used to automatics. With a variety of therapies from massages, facials, to full-body treatments plus daily yoga classes, it’s easy to remain limber. For yoga classes, however, be sure to make a reservation, even before arriving on the property, as class sizes are small and book up quickly.
While I love a good pool and deep tissue massage, the hotel stood out for its exceptional food and beverage program focused on fresh Mediterranean ingredients.
Olea All Suite Hotel offers several dining concepts. Omikron serves a daily breakfast and dinner buffet. I typically skip breakfast when I travel (and don’t eat at buffets for dinner), though the generous display looked appealing from bowls of thick Greek yogurt, local honeycomb, ripe fruits, and other morning specialties.
For lunch, I stuck to Cocoon Restobar near the pool. The setting evokes a bohemian beach lounge replete with a sandy floor for barefoot dining. Given the captive audience, poolside dining is often an afterthought at resorts. Cocoon, however, turns out fresh salads and vegetable dishes, grilled seafood, great smoothies and cocktails, all complemented by a regional wine list, much of it highlighting the grapes of the island.
Two of the best meals of my entire two weeks in the Ionians were enjoyed at Olea All Suite Hotel. During summer nights, Cocoon turns into Pacifico by Nikkei. This popular Athenian restaurant serves Peruvian-Japanese fusion dishes in the tradition of Nikkei cuisine, or Peruvian ingredients shaped by Japanese techniques. Think fish ceviche, quinoa, aji amarillo peppers, soba noodles, and sashimi. With the help of the general manager, we sampled a range of dishes including a delicately spiced tiradito, truffle and miso marinated duck breast, and a rich nigiri foie gras that I can still taste today by thinking about it. Though a diehard fan of Greek salads, after 12 days of raw peppers and brick-size blocks of feta, I welcomed a night of Nikkei-style food.
On the second night, I visited Flow Dine & Wine, the hotel’s flagship restaurant set on a west-facing sunset deck overlooking the mountains and valley. With “wine” in the restaurant name, I assumed correctly the multi-course meal would come with wine pairings (though optional). I appreciated the beverage director’s interest in showcasing some of the island’s rare wines. Rare to an American, anyway. Grapes like Avgoustiatis, Skiadopoulos, Savvatiano, and Goustolidi almost never make their way across the Atlantic to the US, so for wine fanatics, tasting in situ is often the only option.
The menu at Flow combines the expertise and creativity of Greek chef Michalis Nourloglou with his collaborator Stefanos Rizos. Dishes represent authentic Greek flavors through high-brow concepts and distinct beautiful plating. Flow may be the finest dining option in all of Zakynthos, and thankfully, one that emphasizes organic, local, and sustainable ingredients over the usual 5-star resort nonsense of flying in luxury ingredients like Maine lobster. Hopefully more travelers will discover Flow Dine & Wine—the venue accepts reservations from outside guests.
The food and setting at Olea All Suite Hotel demands the highest order of willpower — to pull one’s self away from. It would be easy to spend an entire holiday on the property, but would be a shame to miss out on the island’s natural beauty and opportunity for adventure. From the mesmerizing blue waters of hidden coves, to the fine beaches, fabulous sunset bars, and intimate family restaurants down dark dirt roads in mountain villages. The best solution: book twice the number of days you intended, and you’ll still find it’s not enough.
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