Part nostalgia-fest, part recipes, a new “County Fair” cookbook hits all the right buttons

There are few events that conjure sensory memories and nostalgia quite like a county fair. The sweet smell of cotton candy. The sound of kids shrieking with joy. The tinkling music of a fairground ride. The momentous sight of the winning giant pumpkin or blue-ribbon pie. They all make for indelible memories.

County fairs have always held a special spot in the heart of award-winning food writer and photographer Liza Gershman. With 19 books and hundreds of newspaper and magazine stories under her belt, the Bay Area native finally got the chance to showcase that topic in her new book, “County Fair: Nostalgic Blue Ribbon Recipes from America’s Small Towns” (Images Publishing, $45).

Inside, you’ll find scores of blue ribbon-winning recipes for regional specialties from all 50 states, as well as interviews, pantry tips and, as promised, plenty of nostalgia. Gershman’s vibrant photographs capture it all, from carousels to caramel corn, lemon meringue pies and pear preserves.

In the midst of peak county fair season — and with the Fourth of July approaching — a sweet celebration of all 50 states seems just the thing. California gets a shout-out with Apricot Bars made by Jill Moritz for the Los Angeles County Fair, and Golden Spice Cake with Orange Butter Frosting baked by Diane Davis for the Nevada County Fair held in Grass Valley. There’s a recipe for Cindy Peterson’s Banana Bread Muffins that include not just chocolate and nuts, but blueberries, too, a prize winner at the Sonoma County Fair.

And while James Baum’s Lemon Bars claimed triumph at a county fair in Pennsylvania, he credits a beloved Bay Area home baker with the recipe. “I remember my great-grandmother making these when I would visit her in Richmond with my grandmother,” he says in the book. “She would have a plate of these on the table as soon as we got to her house.”

Looking for a great Fourth of July pie? Adding pastry stars to the lattice of an apple pie or the top crust of a peak-of-season peach-raspberry pie might be just the ticket.

We recently spoke with Gershman about the book, the pies and the irresistible draw of a great county fair.

Q. Why county fairs?

A. I’ve always been a passionate lover of county fairs, Americana and kitchenalia. This book was a long-time dream project, and when I had an opportunity to work on it, I was ecstatic. Because of the timing of the project — it created during 2020 — I was not able to travel across the United States. This actually made the book stronger in some ways or more personal to me, because recipes came from research, friends and friends of friends. The people photographed in the book are friends from my pod, and the watercolor pages of beautiful fruit patterns were painted by my mother.

Q. What is your favorite thing to eat at the fair?

A. I do love cotton candy and of course, this book is about the tasty goods participants enter into the awards contests. It is full of recipes from award-winning pies and cakes, jams and jellies, pickles, preserves and sweets. Apple pie is a classic that I cannot resist.

Q. What are some of your own childhood memories about going to the fair?

A. I grew up going to the Sonoma County Fair and proudly entered contests for sewing and photography. I volunteered with my family to work on the Hall of Flowers and painted a yellow brick road in summer for the Wizard of Oz-themed fair. The fair is always a happy time and a chance to see neighbors and friends and local community members come together and showcase personal projects, hobbies and passions in a beautiful way.

Q. How did find — and choose — the 80 prize-winning recipes you ended up featuring?

A. This was a daunting process that took a great deal of time and research, but that effort was so rewarding. I had an opportunity to talk with people from across the United States and hear their stories.

Q. Are there a few recipes from the book that really stand out for you or surprised you?

A. The zucchini pie is the most surprising. It is absolutely delicious, and I certainly would not have guessed that!