Pearl jewellery just got a glow-up with with sculptural shapes, bold settings and edgy designs

A pastel twinset, neat pleated skirt, sensible shoes and a string of pearls. An iconic combo beloved by grandma’s across the land. Although pearl jewellery has never had the edgiest reputation. Beautiful? Yep. Classic? Certainly. Elegant? Tick. Maybe you’d wear pearls on your wedding day, if you were going for an ultra-traditional ceremony, but it’s unlikely pearl jewellery was plastered all over your dream jewellery mood board.

That was, until, now. Pearls have had the biggest glow-up in the jewellery box and some of the leading designer jewellery labels (many of them led by women) are reimagining pearls and shaking off their staid reputation. Pearls are being set into ear cuffs or single earrings… they’re twisted with quirky, colourful beads or interlaced with gold chains. The biggest pearls look like mini sculptures and are being shown-off solo but we’ve also spotted plenty of faux pearls that work for high street budgets too. The new take on pearls are as far away from your granny’s signature style as you can imagine and we are here for it (although, we still love you gran!)

Copenhagen-based fine jeweller Sophie Bille Brahe is one of the designers leading the new pearl revolution. She told GLAMOUR that how you wear your pearls is just as important as what your wear… “I really want my jewellery to be something that is worn every day so it can become a part of who you are. I love to pair a casual T-shirt with my pearl Peggy necklace or Botticelli pearl earrings. I also like to wear my jewellery in subtle locations on the body, on the ankle, or the back of the neck. I like the way the jewellery sits and does not feel too obvious.”

Now you know how to style the new gen pearls, what are the pieces we rate? If you’re curating an ear stack, Stellar 79’s pearl huggies would be a cute addition to your ear party and we love the drama of Free People’s statement ear cuff. Abbott Lyon’s personalised pearl bracelet would make a sweet present for a pal (or gift to self…) while Persée’s pearl and diamond ring is a super-subtle take on the trend. For sustainable style, Monica Vinader’s collaboration with Mother of Pearl has some amazing pieces and all the gold used is 100% recycled. We’ve fallen for the 18ct gold keshi pearl cocktail earrings.

Far less expensive are the playful faux pearl pieces we spotted on ASOS – they’re not real pearls, granted, but they are a fun way to add a little lustre to everyday looks. The heart drop earrings are our faves. Bold, fun, quirky and fresh, this season the girls in pearls are more likely to wear their jewels with trainers than a twinset. We love to see it.

Scroll through the best new gen pearl jewellery below to find your favourites…

Read more from Glamour UK Fashion Director at large Alex Fullerton here or follow her on Instagram @alexandrafullerton