Peptides are a dream for healthy skin, here’s how to add them to your routine

Chances are you’ve probably heard of peptides: you know they’re good for your skin, but beyond that… umm? They’re a bit of a head scratcher. Along with ceramides and lipids, peptides inhabit the skincare space that sounds super skin-friendly, barrier-building and important, but is too much of a technical snooze-fest to actually remember. 

But, with some of the biggest brands hero-ing the ingredient in their serums, moisturisers and cleansers, it’s no surprise that searches for ‘peptides’ are up by over a third on Boots.com, and Google sees an average of 73.1k of us Googling it each month.

Which leads us to the important questions: what are they, and what can they actually do for our skin? We asked the experts. Allow them to explain…

What are peptides?

“Peptides are short chains of amino acids that act as building blocks of proteins such as collagen, elastin and keratin. These proteins form the foundations of your skin and are directly responsible for its smoothness, bounce, and elasticity,” explains Dr Ellie Bradley, No7’s Science Credentialing Manager.

“There are 20 different naturally-occurring amino acids which can be linked together in any order by peptide bonds to give millions of different peptide combinations,” adds Daniel Isaacs, Director of Research at Medik8. “Our skin is naturally overflowing with different kinds of proteins and peptides, including some of the most important [the previously mentioned] collagen and elastin, which are both responsible for retaining the skin’s natural strength and resilience,” he says. So, with the conversation around strengthening our skin’s barrier to keep all the good stuff (hydration, vitamins etc) in and the bad stuff (pollution, bacteria etc) out, peptides are worth having on your radar.

How do peptides work?

“Peptides are like mini messengers. When applied to the skin they act as communicators, triggering a response in certain cells of the skin. They give your skin a specific instruction to do ‘something’, and that ‘something’ entirely depends on what order your amino acids are in. Every peptide has a unique action on the skin,” explains Daniel. For instance, they could signal skin cells to “produce more collagen, elastin, and other proteins that help support the skin’s structure and improve its appearance,” says Dr Ifeoma Ejikeme, Founder & Medical Director of the Adonia Medical Clinic. “They can also help reduce inflammation, promote wound healing, and improve skin hydration,” she adds.

What do peptides do in skin?

“Reduced peptides in our skin are thought to contribute in part to the natural ageing process of the skin,” explains Dr Anjali Mahto, Consultant Dermatologist. “Many of the peptide products available on the market claim to work by either stimulating the synthesis of key substances such as collagen or elastin, or inhibiting (slowing down) their breakdown. The result is a supposed improvement in wrinkles and skin condition,” she adds.

“In skincare, peptides are incorporated into formulations to mimic the natural peptides found in the skin in the hope that they can also work in tandem to help support the natural self-repair process and improve skin that is depleted in collagen, elastin and fibrillin,” adds Dr Mike Bell, No7 Sincare Advisor.

What skincare concerns can peptides help with?

“Different types of peptides have different effects, from smoothing wrinkles and repairing function, to increasing firmness and hydration. Several peptides can be combined in one product, and most are found in anti-ageing products for skin that has started to show a decrease in the production of those essential proteins,” says Dr Bradley. Commonly quoted benefits of peptides include: