What happens when an indie brand moves on from its signature style? It’s a question that Zoe Champion and Wei Lin are exploring at Ph5. The Ph5 dress is a compact knit sleeveless number with a wavy hemline, in a range of poppy colors. But while they say they have customers who buy them over and over, they’re starting to wonder: “How many wavy dresses can you really make?”
Resort is a successful branching out. As Champion says, they were experimenting with “what’s real and what’s not.” Trompe l’oeil is the big theme throughout the collection, which consists of a dozen-odd garments repeated in three colorways (Barbie pink and white, black and green, and baby blue and gray).
Last season they experimented with denim outlines printed onto knit separates. That became the building block for this season as jeans were printed onto stretchy knit wide-leg trousers, with kicky miniskirts, waistcoats, and roomy jackets getting the same treatment. Some of the lines and hemlines are wavy—for instance, the “boning” on a faux corset top is totally skewed—a touch that adds to the surrealism and bolsters the house codes. There’s so much trompe l’oeil that one wonders if they’re trading one eye-catching trademark for another. For now, it shows the designers’ willingness to experiment.
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