Pitmaster Matt Horn Opens Fried Chicken Joint, Kowbird, In West Oakland

Acclaimed pitmaster Matt Horn of popular barbecue spot, Horn Barbecue, has officially opened his second restaurant, Kowbird in West Oakland. Horn, whose much-deserved notoriety in the food world has continued to blow up after being named to Food & Wine magazine’s Best New Chefs list for 2021, began churning up anticipation of Kowbird with pop-ups. Earlier this month the restaurant graduated to a full blown brick and mortar, housed in a space formerly a diner called Pretty Lady.

Though the diner has gotten a face lift, Horn sought to maintain its history with the new design. “We wanted to create a design that stayed true to the essence of the original space,” explains Horn. Its walls are wrapped in large black-and-white photos, particularly that of of a young farm girl — meant to be the restaurant’s new “pretty lady.” The diner’s original horseshoe-shaped counter and the “funky” green tile in the kitchen also stayed.

His signature attention to detail, commitment to community, and insanely delicious food — this time fried chicken sandwiches — has quickly put Kowbird on the map. With lines wrapped around the corner on any given day, one might think it’s just due to the hype, as well as Horn’s tremendous success with Horn Barbecue. But once you sink your teeth in to one of his fried chicken sandwiches, you get it. The crunch, the juiciness of the chicken, the flavor… it’s something else. Kowbird pays homage to the Southern comfort food he enjoyed with his family growing up.

“For me, fried chicken represents soul and love. Growing up, it was a dish that would bring my family together. Whether after church or in the backyard with friends, it was always centered around love.” says Horn. “To open a fried chicken concept in my home of Oakland is personal to me, it bridges family, love,  soul, and good food.” 

The menu features four types of chicken sandwiches all featuring chicken dredged in buttermilk and seasoned flour topped with house made pickles and “bird sauce” on a potato bun. Currently guests can choose from the traditional Southern Bird; the Honey Bird, finished in a pickled mustard seed-honey sauce; the Early Bird, featuring chicken thighs, Southern-style gravy and a fried egg; and the Hot Bird, finished and dusted with dried, fermented  chilis, which Horn describes as hot, but not unbearable.

Non-meat-eaters can try the Oyster Mushroom Vegan Sandwich, made with crispy fried oyster mushrooms with special seasonings, a plant-based “aioli” and carrot slaw.  

Kowbird plans on expanding its menu to include a Chicken & Buckwheat Waffle offering, featuring original or hot chicken served with a puffed buckwheat waffle and topped with honey butter, a Wings & Fries plate, and, on Sundays, a specialty Fried Catfish Sandwich, original or Nashville Hot. 

Side dishes include Fried Cabbage with Country Bacon, a fresh Chicory Slaw with Pumpkin Seed Vinaigrette & Citrus; a creamy white Mac  & Cheese made with Havarti, Provolone and Gouda, dusted with crispy dehydrated chicken skins; Fried Gizzards and Steak Fries. For dessert, make room of a Candy Apple or Salted Caramel Apple  with Peanuts, or opt for a classic slice of Pecan Pie. The menu is rounded out with house-made lemonade and sweet tea, with beer, root beer and cream soda all on tap.

We chatted with Matt Horn, Chef and Owner of Kowbird and Horn Barbecue, on his latest endeavor. Here’s what he had to say.

Why the switch to chicken — has this always been in the plan, or was it something that was conceived after the tremendous success with Horn Barbecue?

Chicken has always been a part of the plan.

Talk about Kowbird’s design, how are you continuing to pay tribute to Pretty Lady diner, the former occupant of the space? 

We wanted guest to be able to come into a restaurant that felt familiar but also new, while telling a story of the Kowbird brand. The u-shape counter is definitely one of the center pieces for the space, it reminds you of a special time in the past. 

What’s the inspiration behind the menu at Kowbird? Do you expect it to expand? What’s your current favorite on the menu?  

The inspiration behind the Kowbird menu is a southern chicken shack. We wanted to create a simple yet highly executed menu that serves our community in West Oakland. Yes, we plan to scale Kowbird in various markets. My favorite is the Honey Bird, as well as the fried cabbage. 

How long did it take for you to come up with the recipe behind your signature buttermilk fried chicken? Take us through that process. 

I had a few years to focus on the recipe for the chicken. There are so many different ways to cook and prepare chicken, and I wanted to focus on a method that felt best to me. I want the recipe to highlight the chicken; our guests like to come in and compare us to a hot chicken joint, and that’s not who we are. My focus is to create a restaurant that celebrates chicken, but also one where you can enjoy and delicious sandwich that has an insane amount of attention to detail. 

How has the pandemic affected your opening? 

Currently our dining room is closed, eventually when the Omicron surge levels out we’ll open indoor dining with proof of vaccination cards. We are planning on outdoor seating for our guests, starting the week of 1/24.

Anything in the works for Horn Hospitality Group in 2022? 

We’re working on various concepts which includes: our Matty’s burger concept, Dalia breakfast taco concept, and current trying to identify a second potential Horn Barbecue location. 

Follow me on my food adventure on Instagram at @cheycheyfromthebay!