Mark loves a good fashion insider reference (see the Schiaparelli-like acorn necklace from spring 2022), and there were several hidden within this collection. A slit sleeve top in a sparkling metallic jersey was the designer’s nod to Helmut Lang. The court shoes, inspired by a vintage pair Mark found online, have Lady Miss Kier vibes, and the lobster tail dress could be seen as an homage to Charles James, who was known for his crustacean-inspired designs. Having a model put her arms through the loops of a bow top gave it a fun bondage-y twist that was all Mark’s own.
One of the reasons the designer took Eyes Wide Shut as her inspiration was because Nicole Kidman was such a powerful presence. In one of the scenes in which the actress revealed her strength she was physically vulnerable, wearing only high-cut panties and a camisole. “I’ve been thinking about Nicole Kidman specifically this season because I just turned 34 and I’m growing a business and I’m growing my confidence; I have to in order to run a business,” Mark said. “So I think about being a woman who is sexual, and business minded, and living in a city, and trying to hold my own, and trying to be intelligent, and trying to connect with other people. It’s hard, and it’s funny, and it’s fun, and it’s difficult—and it’s all the things.”
We’re all pushed and pulled in so many directions these days, it helps to blow off some steam. With her spring collection Mark offered comic relief and indulgences both carnal and culinary. Those cookie bags are apparently selling like hot cakes.
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