R13 has been blowing up its proportions of late, extending blazers into Lurch-like hoodies and supersizing knits into post-Cobain shapes. For resort 2023, Chris Leba and co. have one of their boldest propositions yet: What if backpacks were pants? Stitched into the sides of already-so-wide leg trousers are backpacks à la Jansport, creating some of the grungiest, baggiest pants of 2022. “It’s about creating dimensions through new forms,” said Leba, pointing at the backpacks worked into flannel shirts and jackets, offering utility and dimension beyond what the R13 customer might come to expect.
The function of said pants aside—Leba admits they have yet to try stuffing them with, say, textbooks—the collection continues to bring R13’s grunginess to new, wearable levels. Laddered knitwear, flannel shirts, and repurposed military lining jackets will be easier for the everyday punk to adopt, as will the brand’s ever growing repertoire of supersized and platform shoes. Leba pushed on, “These are all real items, we don’t invent things.” However surreal these shapes are, he’s right about that: R13 is constantly working at authenticity through its reimagining of grunge, punk, alt, and other musically inclined subcultures. Shooting lookbooks has given the brand more control over that image during the pandemic, but it would be cool to see R13 put it forward a little more. Maybe a show next season?
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