Let’s get something out of the way: Rachel Comey isn’t launching a maternity collection. The idea behind this season’s lookbook was to capture women in many phases of life; there’s a young Paulina Porizkova lookalike, a PR maven, and, yes, a pregnant woman in these pictures, each one of them looking like they could’ve stepped off the New York street into her studio for the photo shoot. Comey doesn’t concern herself with editorial messages, and her clothes aren’t costumey or performative. She’s got her eyes on her clients, and she’s focused on expanding her retail footprint. At a preview last week, she said was close to signing a lease on a San Francisco space.
If that lease goes through, the store will open shortly before this delivery arrives there in a November timeframe. It’s a winter collection, and as such Comey devoted a lot of attention to sweater dressing. She’s got knits in all shapes and textures, from an office-ready sweater dress with a hitch in the hem that gives its skirt a gentle volume to an openwork crochet tank-and-tapered-pant set, plus matching scarf, that would be useful on the holiday party circuit. Comfort and mobility count for a lot here. Outerwear is another focus, given the season, but beyond the shaved shearlings that she brought back from last year (warm with lots of hand appeal), she took an all-weather approach to cocoon coats, cutting them not in wool or cashmere but tech satin or moleskin better adapted to a future when hotter, snowless winters could be the norm.
As keyed to real life as Comey’s collections are, they’re not humorless. Fun and whimsy drive sales, too. Here they came in the form of polka dots embroidered on tulle and blush- and coral-colored sequins.
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