Rancio Style Wines Win Fresh Respect

The choice of names for this winemaking style is less than optimal.

‘Dry oxidative wines’ is an uncomfortable mouthful of consonants, while the alternative and more fluid rancio wines (from Portuguese) is briefer and borders on poetic. Yet it also sidles close to the word ‘rancid’ from which it derives—unattractive for any aperitif.

The words rancio and ‘rancid’ share etymology because crafting this beverage borders on producing unpalatable plonk.

Dry oxidative, or rancio wines age with more oxygen than is used to make other dry wines. The consequent and intended aromas and flavors—such as leather or orange rind—are attractive only if the liquid is relatively high in alcohol—17.5% being common. These wines may be blended from different vintages.

The term and techniques are not new. Think Madeira or Port or Sherry or Marsala or the yellow wine of Jura. The word rancio itself refers to old ports. Yet today such wines are being rethought, repackaged and marketed anew.

What these wines have in common is the molecule 3-hydroxy-4.5 dimethyl 2(5h)-furanone, responsible for odors and premature aging flavor. This is also present in old sake and aged champagnes and certain botrytized wines. Aromas may include those of curry, nuts, coffee, caramel and dried figs. The organoleptic properties—aspects which create individual experiences via senses, such as taste and smell—include caramel like odors: think maple, burnt sugar, coffee, brown sugar and cotton candy.

Flavors derived from such technique have been enjoyed for millennia, even when not produced using similar techniques.

According to the book La Nouvelle Epopee des Vins Oxydatifs Secs the Roman agronomist Lucius Iunius Moderatus Columella, born in what is now Cadiz, Spain, wrote a recipe for wines, which archaeologist André Tchernia replicated. He produced a wine with rancio odors—not by oxidization, but instead by adding fenugreek, a Mediterranean herb similar to clover.

These wines may be pricey due to the required aging and limited production. Their pungent aromas can pair well with dry, aromatic foods.

Larry Stone, sommelier, wine producer and CEO/Founder of Lingua Franca based in Oregon in the U.S., wrote to provide more information.

‘There were quite a few pre-1985. Then, more countries demanded that young winemakers would have to be trained in enology rather than solely by a senior family member. There are a few styles of wine still that are dry and oxidative, such as lighter Madeiras, some dry white Portos, some older dry Furmint wines, nearly everything traditionally from Côtes du Rhône Méridionales (but not anymore). Also—Côtes du Rhône Septentrionales, especially many of the Condrieu prior to 1990.

‘There is also a difference between ‘oxidative’ and ‘oxidized’ wines. Oxidative winemaking should be limited strictly to methods that expose musts early in the cycle to oxygen, and which wind up clean and oxygen neutral as the fermentation progresses, such as the “black Chardonnay” (which has been described by Katherine Cole).

‘Then there are the dry wines I used to buy in Austria in 1972 in Burgenland whose barrel maintenance was rather cavalier. These I would describe as oxidized. Still, many people enjoyed the slightly or overtly ‘nutty’ walnut overtones, as long as they didn’t reach the levels of a fino sherry.’

Many rancio wines are produced in southeast France—the Roussillon wine region—as well as in the adjacent and overlapping French and Spanish Catalan country. Grapes used to make rancio wines here are traditionally Grenache and Macabeo. Each year in the town of Perpignan, dozens of winemakers gather for days at a public tasting named ‘Be Ranci’ to share their liquid rancio artistry—often brazen elixirs with a whiff of grand old rum or port or even barnyard funk.

Below are tasting notes on various wines from different producers.

Cave Arnaud de Villeneuve. IGP Côtes Catalanes. Rancio Sec. 92 points.

This 16% alcohol dry white bottled in 2020 and made from grapes Grenache Blanc and Macabeo spent five years aging in oak. Aromas include a volatile barnyard meld, as well as marmalade and treacle. Balanced, dry and rich in the mouth with flavors that include sultanas. Representative Guillaume Arbus recommends pairing with parmesan or comté cheese, with pata negra ham, with young chicken or with marinated anchovies.

Vignobles Dom Brial. IGP Côtes Catalanes. Rancio Sec. 2000. 92 points.

This 15.5% wine made from Grenache Blanc and Macabeo grapes includes rich, rounded and supple but slightly smoky rum and sultana aromas. Juicy acidity in the mouth for this light and well-structured dry oxidized wine. Cellar master Xavier Ponset recommends pairing with salty charcuterie, cheese or Catalan cuisine such as complex and aromatic meats or fish dishes—because the acidity pairs well with salt.

Domaine des Chênes. IGP Côtes Catalanes. L’oublié. 1999. 92 points.

This 17.5% alcohol 100% Macabeo dry oxidized wine from Alain Razungles is dark amber in color and includes racy, pungent aromas of caramel, orange peel and cooked prunes, as well as slight vegetative notes such as eucalyptus. In the mouth this is powerful and slightly biting due to the elevated alcohol. Includes a hint of sultanas, sour green apples and candy cane. A well-made wine: dry, complex, structured and hefty. Alain recommends pairing with salty, oxidized food such as Serrano ham or anchovies.

Cave de L’Etoile. IGP Côte Vermeille. Al Padri. 92 points.

From Guillaume Augé comes this rum and amber colored 15.5% alcohol blend of Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris and Carignan with smoky and supple as well as complex and sweet aromas of candied apples, orange rind and marmalade. In the mouth this is reminiscent of a Monbazillac sweet wine. Pair with fish, anchovies or sauced meats.

Domaine Roc des Anges. Roussillon. IGP Côtes Catalanes Blanc. Cioran. Bottled 2019. 97+ points.

From Marjorie and Stéphane Gallet comes this 14.5% alcohol Grenache Gris and Macabeo blend that aged up to six years in oak. Made in a style between dry white and rancio. Aromas of white pear and mandarin, while in the mouth—crisp with a Burgundian style peppery snap and beautiful acidity—a mouthful of gentle joy. Phenomenal.

Domaine de la Grézille. Loire. La Galopinière. 2003. 94 points.

From Bruno Paillocher in the Loire Valley comes this Chenin Blanc. Made from a late grape harvest and aged for a dozen years in oak casks on the lees. Bottled unfiltered. Aromas of bitter cherries, oranges and iced lime with a hit of allspice. Gorgeous mouthful of racy acidity, tropical and temperate citrics, candy cane and bitter cherries. Festive and energetic. Bruno recommends pairing this with hot comté or goat cheese on toast with honey; alternatively with anchovies or foie gras.

Domaine de la Grézille. Loire. Terre de Feu. Cabernet Sauvignon. 2010. 94 points.

15% alcohol dry rosé Cab that aged ten years in oak barrels and was bottled without fining or filtration. Light and nutty and slight menthol aromas. Balanced and gorgeous welcoming mouthful with a rounded and oily yet crackling mouth feel.

Domaine de la Grézille. Loire. Cuvée Saint André. 2007. 92 points.

This 100% Cabernet Franc includes gorgeous full aromas of sliced red and black cherries. In the mouth: light, bright flavors of red fruit, as well as red fruit punch and cocoa.

Domaine Dominique Andiran. Gers. Montis Régalis. Vin de France. 92 points.

The color of young pears, this 14% alcohol and 100% Chardonnnay Includes aromas of baked apples, Bartlett pears and smoke. In the mouth—apple cider and cooked figs with cinnamon. Easy drinking, generous acidity in this festive juice.

Domaine Dominique Andiran. Gers. Le Ruminant des Vignes. Vin de Table. 92 points.

Made from the Gros Manseng grape, this includes aromas of well-cooked apple strudel, orange rind and peppermint candy cane. In the mouth—a joyous river of pear juice and slight menthol. Crackling sweet on the finish.

Ad Vinum. Gard. 94 points.

Semi-mysterious amber colored wine with a wrap-around label that includes medieval images of skeletons and what appear to be a queen and a priest. Volatile, pungent and smoky aromas that include menthol, tree bark and the memory of Irish poitin or illegal backcountry moonshine. Hefty and statured in the mouth, as well as smoky and savage. This is an ax-wielding tree cutter showing up to a princess gala ball.

Domaine Plageoles. Gaillac—Premieres Cotes. Vin de Voile. 1981. 93 points.

Made exclusively from the Mauzac grape of Gaillac, this is a candied and relaxed beauty with aromas of caramel, toast, nuts and mandarins. Light and wispy apple and pear beauty in the mouth.

Domaine Plageoles. Gaillac Conrolée. Vin de Voile. 1996. 96+ points.

Made from the Mauzac grape of Gaillac by Bernard Plageoles, this is a smoky powerhouse and as pungent as a honeyed Burgundian white—with a hit of nuttiness and lush, supple acidity on the finish.

Château D’Arlay. Jura. Le Naturé du Château D’Arlay. 2019. 93 points.

This 14.5% alcohol white made from the Savagnin grape includes aromas of green and yellow apples and white pears. Soft and luminous on the nose, including white florals. In the mouth—a light taste of pear and persimmons and cinnamon toast.

Domaine Danjou-Banessy. IGP Côtes Catalanes. Vi Ranci Rancio Sec. 2002. 92 points.

From winemaker Sébastien Danjou comes this Macabeo which includes aromas of hibiscus, orange rind, cinnamon and jellybeans. Complex, layered, inviting. In the mouth, the taste is layered and volatile and includes flavors of sultanas. Orange rind on the attack, mid palate of brandy and cherries and white pears on the finish. Commanding and complex.

Oiseau Rebelle. Roussillon. P’tit Rebelle. 96 points.

A blend of Grenache Blanc, Muscat and Vermentino. A blast of orange aromas, as well as those of nutmeg, allspice and orange loaf. The taste of angel food cake with pears and clementines. A lovely sweet lilt on the finish with a hit of lemon and nutmeg.

Oiseau Rebelle. Roussillon. XR 17. 95 points.

Clementine and pound cake aromas and a full flush of Christmas cake flavors in the mouth, learning toward the orange spectrum. Delicious acidity.

Domaine Mamaruta. Aude. 95 points.

From Marc Castan—with aromas of Seville oranges. This liquid joy includes tastes of oranges and sultanas in the throat, with a velvety finish.

Château de Bel Olivier Cazenave. Bordeaux. Altrès. 95 points.

Muscadelle in an attractively short and squat bottle with a semi purple label. Fresh lemon sorbet bouquet. Honeyed and richly balanced with aromas of clay and even gooseberries. In the mouth a soothing stream of lemon and nectarine sorbet. Delightful!