Recipe: Rainbow chard has mind-blowing flavors and textures

I fell in love with Chef Jason Quinn’s sautéed chard. My leafy obsession began over a decade ago, soon after he opened the now-shuttered Playground in Santa Ana. I sampled myriad dishes on the eatery’s a la carte menu, returning again and again. Everything I tried was delicious, but it was the chard that haunted me.

His take on fresh rainbow chard showcased two textures: the soft cooked-down leaves and the firmer chunks of the center, colorful stalks (ribs) — some red, others orange or yellow. The rich hues and appealing texture make the dish a welcome accompaniment to roast chicken or pork.

I’ve been known to down it on its own, with maybe a little crumbled feta sprinkled on top. Sometimes I pile small portions on toasted baguette slices and crown them with slivers of Manchego cheese. I’ve topped it with a fried egg and called it dinner. Scrumptious.

Jason Quinn’s Sauteed Rainbow Chard

Yield: 2 big servings or 4 smaller servings

INGREDIENTS

Salt

1 large bunch clean fresh rainbow chard

Bowl of ice water

Extra-virgin olive oil, about 2 tablespoons

1/2 fresh red Fresno chili, stemmed, seeds removed (or left in if you prefer spicy), cut crosswise into thin slices, see cook’s notes

1 large garlic clove, peeled, cut into thin crosswise slices

Cook’s notes: Use caution when working with fresh chilies. Wash hands and work surface upon completion and do NOT touch face or eyes.

PROCEDURE

1. Bring a pot of salted water to a boil on high heat; Quinn advises that the water should be as salty as the ocean. Add chard and blanch until leaves are wilted. Drain well on paper towels, patting dry.

2. Cut blanched and drained chard crosswise into 1/2-inch-wide slices. Heat oil in large skillet on medium-high heat. Add chili and garlic; saute, stirring frequently, until garlic very lightly browns. Add drained, sliced chard and sauté, stirring frequently, until leaves are very tender and central stalk (rib) chunks are slightly tender but still a little crisp. Taste and add salt if needed. Serve.