Rubies Revisited: The Regal And Romantic Birthstone Of July

July’s Birthstone, ruby is having a moment, from jewels at auction to the red carpet to the designers who are reinvigorating styles from the past with a modern attitude.

This year alone, both Christie’s and Sotheby’s sold legendary rubies. Christie’s, on June 7, 2023 in The Magnificent Jewels of Anne Eisenhower , who was an interior designer and the granddaughter of President Dwight D. Eisenhower auctioned what was reportedly jewelry collector Marlene Dietrich’s favorite piece, her Van Cleef & Arpels three-dimensional Jarretière cuff bracelet (c.1937). Eisenhower purchased it when it first when under the hammer in 1992. The bracelet was created from a selection of Dietrich’s own gems, including seventy-three rubies and 141 diamonds. Dietrich’s version of the cuff was more oversized and had more flowing lines than the original Jarretière bracelet. You can read the whole story here

Then on June 8, 2023, The most valuable and largest ruby was the highlight of the Sotheby’s Magnificent Jewels Sale. The natural ruby of 55.22-carat is setting a new record for Mozambican rubies and rubies in general.” Read a report from the Gübelin Gem Lab. You can read the whole store here

And it’s no secret that the most glamorous celebrities in Hollywood, society and royalty were fans of rubies and owned some of the most awe-inspiring, including Elizabeth Taylor, Queen Elizabeth II, Princess Grace of Monaco and The Duchess of Windsor. These jewels were designed by houses such as Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin, Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Verdura, David Webb and Bulgari. Each ruby jewel recalls a legendary moment in the life of these iconic women.

Designers rejuvinate styles we have seen in the past with a modern attitude for today. The stone associated with passion and lust is as romantic as its firey color and ranges from pieces informed by periods as diverse as ancient Egypt, the Regency/Georgian period, Belle Epoque, Art Deco and mid-20th century. Depending on the influence, rubies are set into yellow gold or white metals.

Here are some to which to aspire and others that are perfect for receiving as gifts or self-purchase:

CICADA’s 18K gold jaw dropping necklace with rubies and diamonds.

Omni Prive’s awe-inspiring 18K gold triple cushion cut ruby ring with diamond surrounds.

Estate Diamond Jewelry’s beautiful and extremely wearable 18K white gold line bracelet features oval cut natural rubies set in prongs. Round brilliant-cut diamonds are set above, below, and between the rubies.

Reza’s breathtaking 18K white gold Corne D’Abondance Earrings with diamonds.

Nikos Koulis mixes up 19th and early 20th-century details in his 18K white gold Oui ring with oval ruby, tapered baguette white diamonds, trapezoid white diamonds, and black enamel.

Jemma Wynne’s 18K white gold, rubies and diamond bespoke bracelet offers a glamorous take on the classic tennis bracelet.

Mallary Marks 18K yellow gold and ruby Mesopotamian earrings hark back to ancient times.

Rahaminov’s 18K Gold ruby and spiral bracelet snakes up the wrist with elegant sophistication.

Nak Armstrong’s 20K rose gold, ruby and diamond Ruched Ear Clips climb up the ear with tactile nuances.

Anita Ko’s 18K gold and ruby Twist Ring wraps the finger in luxury.

Linda Hoj’s 22K gold Voyager works vibrant rubies in a cross on it’s side motif in between a heavy, handmade chain with granulated links .

Deborah Pagani’s 18K yellow gold bespoke Honey Gypsy Ring woes with heart-shaped ruby

Selim Mouzannar’s 18K ruby and enamel modern girondole earrings make for a dramatic yet highly wearable style.

Linda Hoj’s star ruby ring is rendered in 22K gold and a constellation of dazzling diamonds that surround this juicy gemstone is regal and an elegant, refined take on the cocktail ring.