Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyard offers releases from its Middle-Aged Cellar

One of the things I learned from international wine legend Michel Rolland, whose consulting efforts have made Harlan, Delle Valle and Screaming Eagle legendary, was that he finds the American habit of drinking wines too young puzzling and somewhat distressing.

“I’m drinking 2001 to 2010 Bordeaux right now,” said Rolland, a Frenchman who completed his 50th harvest in 2022.

When it comes to well-made wines, Rolland’s advice is, “Buy young wines for less money. Start collecting earlier. Wait to drink them for at least eight years.”

Silicon Valley is home to some fabulous restaurants with deep wine cellars, and in them you will find age-worthy gems from Mount Eden, Ridge and Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyard. The philosophy behind these wines is to let them express site as  much as possible, and this can take way more than eight years. Often, it requires decades of patience for them to sort themselves out, slowly shaking off their rough edges.

But who has that level of patience? Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyard winemaker Jeff Emery decided during the pandemic that some of his cellar selections had reached “middle age” and were ready to share.

“I had this idea of being able to release some cabernets and pinots from 1998 to mid-2000s,” says Emery. “They have some age on them now, but they are still for the most part, not ready.”

Exactly what “ready” means in the context of wine is a complex equation, with the variables of acid, age, origin and the specific chemistry of the vintage. To get all these variables to line up takes, well, patience.

Emery at this stage admits that the wines in his cellar will likely outlast him, so why not allow folks the chance to dip into a time capsule?

One of these cellar treasures is the 2002 Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyard Pinot Noir, which was among the last he harvested from the vineyard on Jarvis Road that Ken Burnap, founder of Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyard, purchased from David Bruce in 1974. Bruce needed the money after an expensive divorce.

Burnap sold it in 2004 to a group of investors who called it Vine Hill Vineyard and Gatos Locos. It fell victim to partner infighting but has undergone a bit of a renaissance.

Like most of Emery’s wines, the 2002 pinot noir is a very low 12.5% ABV, made in the European and early California style. It displays a hint of sanguinity, typical of a wine that has exacted a toll of blood, sweat and tears from its makers. It’s quite autumnal, with cranberry and pomegranate, distinct sour cherry, crabapple, dried figs and a hint of soy. Even in the short time we tasted it, the wine displayed a profound change from tight to accessible.

Emery describes this wine as “unbelievably nice and wonderful.” A bottle can be yours for $275.

“I figure if Napa can charge that much for a cab you can’t even think about drinking yet, why can’t I charge that for a wine that’s not only drinkable now but has another eight to 10 years on it?” he says.

Talking with Marty Mathis has given him the confidence that there is a market for wines of unique provenance that have stellar staying power.

Among the pinot noir lineup are a few gems from the Santa Lucia Highlands, Branciforte Creek and Bailey’s.

He’s also particularly fond of the 2006 and 2007 Luchessi Vineyard Cabernets, which he says are “everything you want in a Bordeaux: black olive, cedar, cassis and spice.”

He also loves the Mendocino Grenache from McDowell Vineyard and has a few Rhone blends, which are showing well. Some of the wines were previously released only to the wine club, and there are a few cases or bottles remaining.

Here is an excerpt from the Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyard’s Middle-Aged Cellar:

2003 Vine Hill Reserve, $275— Long decant; aging potential. Many complex layers.

2003 Branciforte Creek Pinot Noir (club release), $250—Great now or in five to eight more years. Fruit and graphite.

2005 Wine Club Pinot Noir,  $225—Great now or in five to eight more years.. More extracted, quite complex.

2006 Finesse Cuvée Pinot Noir (club release), $185—Drink it now or in two to three years. Nuanced complexity.

2007 Wine Club Release Pinot Noir, $185 —Long decant; aging potential. More extracted, rich fruit and spice.

2012 Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir, $50—Drink now or in two to three years. Elegant, nuanced complex fruit.

1999 Estate Pinot Noir, $275—Long decant now or in eight to 12 years. Darker elements, graphite, earth.

2000 Estate Pinot Noir, $275—Long decant; aging potential. Sour cherries, some darker nuances.

2001 Estate Pinot Noir, $265—Long decant; aging potential. Sour cherries, bright.

2001 Estate Reserve Pinot Noir, $295—Long decant; aging potential. Black cherry, darker complexities.

These bottles are sold as “as is.”  Emery can check for cork taint with a Coravin for a small fee. Peruse the entire inventory list at https://www.santacruzmountainvineyard.com/library.