Sensitive or sensitised? Here’s a simple guide to why your skin is playing up

Uh-oh. Sensitive skin is on the rise and, it looks like we’re all making it worse. 

The evolution of at-home skincare has given us high strength acids, retinols and serums. We’ve become our own chemists and aestheticians, stringing together DIY skincare routines to tackle our top issues from our bedrooms. We have the power to treat our own skin in our hands – or at least in our bathroom cabinets. The only problem is… Well, we don’t really know what we’re doing.

Worryingly, there seems to be a correlation between the advancement in our home skincare and the prevalence of skin sensitivity. A medical study published in 2019 noted that between 60-70% of women reported having sensitive skin, characterised by itching, burning, stinging, tightness or dryness. 

If this sounds familiar, join the club. “There is evidence that the reported prevalence of self-perceived skin sensitivity has increased steadily over time,” the study says. Notably, it affects women (whose skincare regimens traditionally tend to be much more stringent and potent) more than men.

Notice the phrase “self-perceived,” though. Since sensitivity is so subjective, it isn’t easy to diagnose correctly. A recent study into sensitivity in the UK by La Roche Posay found that over one in 10 women will describe their skin as sensitive without really knowing what it means. 

Experts are finding that what we believe to be sensitive skin may actually be sensitised skin and that we could be playing a more significant role in the reactivity of our skin than we realise.

“Sensitive skin is naturally reactive skin,” explains facialist and founder of eponymous skincare brand Kate Somerville. “If your skin flares because of certain foods, pollen and ingredients, it’s likely to be sensitive.”

Sensitised skin, on the other hand, is effectively injured. “Sensitised skin is the result of overstimulation,” says Kate. “Lasers, peels and even retinols can cause the skin to become injured,” she explains.

Most of the time, it comes down to how sturdy your skin barrier is. “For example, when people use certain products on their skin that they can’t really tolerate, it feels dry or astringent or starts to sting the skin,” explains Dr Justine Hextall, La Roche-Posay Consultant Dermatologist. 

“The interesting thing is a lot of people have learned to live with sensitivity and don’t realise that it’s an issue until it’s corrected. Your skin shouldn’t feel tight or uncomfortable,” she adds. “If you’re noticing your skin throughout the day, then there’s an issue.”

While ingredients like acids and retinol can work magic at removing dead skin, increasing cell turnover and improving the look and texture of our skin, like most things, it’s about moderation. It’s worth building up your tolerance to punchy ingredients slowly and sensibly, pausing to see if your skin agrees with it.

If you’re using a retinol every day, chances are you won’t need a harsh exfoliator on top. And, if you’re using potent formulas that effectively break down or weaken your skin barrier, you need to be building it back up.