Southern Comfort Food Finds A Home In An Unexpected Place

In Palm Springs, land of memorable margaritas, south of the border classics and incredible date shakes, there’s a new menu in town that’s making waves. That’s because the chef at The Rowan’s 4 Saints certainly has the chops to deliver on a menu that evokes the fine flavors of the American South.

Sorghum and crispy chicken skin cornbread? Yup!

It might be a bit jarring to walk into one of the finest dining rooms in the Coachella Valley and scan the menu to find ingredients rarely seen outside the South.

Sure, we’ve grown accustomed to the now ubiquitous fried chicken. Heck, that golden bird shows even shows up on white linen tablecloths these days.

Yet the ingredients showcased on Ysaac Ramirez’s new menu at The Rowan’s 4 Saints are unexpected in the most wonderful ways.

Take the Marsh Hen Mill cornbread, for instance. That heirloom grain from Edisto Island in South Carolina is treated reverently as a first course, topped with sorghum, chopped pecans and cultured butter. It might be mistaken for a dessert, but bits of crispy chicken skin bring home the savory quality you want in a starter.

There’s a similar story played out on the charred maitake dish, with Jimmy Red grits providing a creamy foundation for the meaty mushrooms. Diced green apples brighten the small plate that’s meant to be shared.

Meet the chef

A native Californian, Ysaac Ramirez went to culinary school in the South. After attending L’École Culinaire in Memphis, Tenn., he worked with high profile chefs Andy Ticer and Michael Hudman. He helped open the team’s Hog & Hominy in East Memphis, a beloved dining destination that recently reopened in an expanded new space after being destroyed by fire two years ago.

Ramirez continued his culinary seasoning in North Carolina and New Orleans before moving to Palm Springs to work as executive chef at King’s Highway at Ace Hotel & Swim Club. He became executive chef at The Rowan in September, 2021.

The hotel’s rooftop restaurant enjoys one of the most spectacular vistas in the city, with the San Jacinto mountains providing a dramatic backdrop to the west while the city lights twinkle below. A table on the outdoor patio feels like exactly the right place to be on a January evening. Ahhh, winter in the desert.

Exploring the entrees

Of course, it’s not all a Southern food love fest at 4 Saints. There’s the nod to the steakhouse with aged slabs of beef cooked on the grill. Even the burger patty is dry aged. A Latin-inspired accent appears on main course offerings such as the whole branzino finished in a sea of poblano crema. A rich mole is paired with the Adobo cauliflower, an intriguing plant-based preparation that gets a bit of crunch from a shower of pepitas.

Yet, the homage to the satisfying flavors of the south runs through the finishing elements on many of the chef’s creations. Sea Island red peas complement the stuffed quail. Carolina gold rice and collard greens grace the seared steelhead and the gnocchi is sauced with “Sunday gravy,” a Southern staple in Italian kitchens. Mmmmm.

The only portion of the evening’s offerings that don’t go in that direction are the desserts and that’s a crying shame. Because no matter how stuffed you are, it’s nearly impossible to resist a slice of Red Velvet cake or banana pudding or pecan pie.

Then again, you could always circle back to that cornbread for the final course and ask the kitchen to skip the chicken skin.

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