Stop being squeamish about anchovies and use them in a penne dish

After a trip to Rome last fall, a friend told us he was on a mission to cook with more of “those little fishes.” It sounded like a good idea — sardines and anchovies are more sustainable than meat, have many health benefits, and are packed with protein and flavor.

Those little fishes are making a comeback, not only as an ingredient in cooking but also as stocking stuffers, which a New York Times piece suggested on a page picturing some artfully colorful tins.

Though both sardines and anchovies are little oily fishes and are sometimes served as an appetizer on a piece of bread or a toothpick, they are different in taste and texture, so don’t substitute one for the other. Sardines are milder, larger, lighter in color and usually packed in oil or brine with their heads still attached. Anchovies are usually darker in color, filleted, and packed in salt and oil. The flavor of anchovies is much stronger and more often used as a flavor enhancer rather than a main ingredient.

Anchovies are harder to find fresh than sardines, which are fished here in Monterey Bay. Fresh sardines are delicious barbecued if you come across them on a restaurant menu.

Even with their growing popularity, many of us are still squeamish about eating anchovies. And they might be surprised to find out that they are already eating them in or on some of their favorite dishes. Anchovies are in Worcestershire sauce, for example.

My own repertoire of anchovy dishes has expanded lately, and I have so far not been disappointed with the umami flavor that those little fishes provide. I made a huge bowl of Penne with Broccoli, Bacon and Anchovies with (I used gigli from Trader Joe’s)and had one helping, leaving the rest for the late night snackers and a meal or two. The next day the pasta was gone, the bowl cleaned and put back in the cupboard — a good sign that it was a recipe worth keeping.

Claudia Alexander has been happily cooking for family and friends for more than three decades. She has a weekly food blog, sweetbynurture.com. Contact her at [email protected].

RECIPE

Penne with Broccoli, Bacon and Anchovies

Serves 3-4

Ingredients:

3 large cloves garlic

3 anchovies

2 tablespoons olive oil, divided

½ tablespoon coarse salt

2 slices of thick bacon cut into lardons or 3 ounces pancetta cut into slices

1 large head of broccoli cut into small florets

½ tablespoon salt

2 tablespoons of vegetable oil

½ pound of tubular pasta- penne, fusilli or rigatoni

¼ cup or more of Parmesan cheese grated

Directions:

Combine garlic, salt, anchovies, and 1 tablespoon of olive oil in mortar and pestle, crush to a paste.

In a heavy skillet add the remaining tablespoon of olive oil and cook the bacon over medium heat until it begins to turn brown and crisp. Add the anchovy mixture. Stir for 3 minutes until the anchovies have melted into the sauce. Add the broccoli and cook over high heat, stirring constantly so the broccoli doesn’t burn, has turned dark green and begins to soften but still has a bit of crunch. Turn off the heat and let the broccoli mixture sit in the pan uncovered while you cook the pasta.