STORY TIME: Expanded Muskoka Discovery Centre sheds in-depth light on all things Muskoka

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A loon arrived near the boat launch as if right on cue and began to let out those familiar, iconic soft wails.

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Coffee was in hand this late-summer morning as we looked out from the Muskoka Wharf in Gravenhurst. The blue skies could not possibly be bluer. The air could not be crisper.

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They sure do a nice job of scripting their welcomes for the visitors here in Ontario’s sublime cottage country.

We were soon greeted by another welcome, this time inside the newly enhanced cultural gem that is the Muskoka Discovery Centre. The non-profit centre’s $9-million expansion is what brought us to this former sawmill town known as the ‘Gateway to Muskoka,’ an easy two-hour drive from Toronto, at least when the cottaging season isn’t in full swing.

‘The Muskoka Story: A Microcosm of Canada’ is a 12,000 square-foot gallery built on five years of planning and extensive fundraising efforts. It’s the kind of cultural-based tourism that has been a long time coming to an area that draws some 85,000 seasonal residents and countless visitors year-round, perhaps some who are unfamiliar with the area beyond its lakes and natural beauty. And certainly, some who wouldn’t be familiar with pre-colonial life preceding those sawmill years.

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‘Biingehn’ translates from Ojibwe to English to mean ‘welcome’ or ‘come in’ — and it’s among the first things visitors will see and learn about upon entry into ‘Misko-Aki: Confluence of Cultures,’ one of three unique permanent exhibits spanning two floors that opened this summer as part of the cultural hub’s expansion.

We were fortunate to have Indigenous storyteller Jack Payette show us this portion of the new gallery, which follows the Indigenous presence in Muskoka since millennia, taking guests on a seven-stop metaphoric canoe journey through the region starting with Indigenous hunters at the end of the last ice age. Guests will learn how early Indigenous communities adapted to changing environments, colonial engagement, and contemporary times.

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Misko-Aki translates to ‘Red Earth,’ and is also the name of an early Anishinaabe leader (William Yellowhead, or ‘Musquakie,’ hence Muskoka).

“It means the earth we live in is our lifeblood,” said Payette.

The exhibit tells the story of Indigenous history in the region that spans some 13,000 years and sheds light on significant moments (‘The Coldwater Experiment,’ Williams Treaties) and traditions (wampum belt, moccasins distinct to each nation).

Visitors will learn about the unique identities of each community and the establishment of Indigenous sovereign nations (flags displayed represent nations and communities in the Misko-Aki region in the past and today).

“This is what I like to stress,” Payette said of the Sixties Scoop and Residential Schools and unmarked graves. “This is not our history. This is history imposed on us.”

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In the Truth and Reconciliation conversation, Payette said, this exhibit supplies much-needed exposure and a chance for people to learn, highlighting the “caring, sharing and understanding” nature of Indigenous people.

As we finished perusing the many artifacts and displays, Payette pointed to the word “baamaapii” next to the exit and told us its meaning: Hope to see you again sometime. The Indigenous people don’t say goodbye as that would imply you might not see the person again.

‘Misko-Aki: Confluence of Cultures’ is curated entirely by a circle of Indigenous elders, scholars and linguists representing four cultural groups including Huron-Wendat, Anishinaabek, Metis and Haudenosaunee. The project was led by Tim Johnson, a former associate director for the National Museum of the American Indian at the Smithsonian.

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The ‘Muskoka Story’ also features ‘Evolving Muskoka: Life on the Edge of the Shield, which explores the evolution of the area over the last 250 years. Visitors can learn about A.P. Cockburn — the father of Muskoka tourism — and watch a short film with its effective message that “the lakes belong to all of us and none of us.”

A third exhibit, ‘Wanda III: Steam to Green,’ describes the electrification and restoration of the historic 108-year-old steam yacht — commissioned for the Eaton family — which has been refurbished with electric motors and rechargeable lithium-ion batteries. There are plans for her to sail next summer following a 20-year hiatus. The vessel’s original motor is on display.

Other permanent exhibits include The Water Gallery, highlighting the Muskoka Watershed as well as the Indigenous relationship with water and the role of women recognized as “water keepers,” the Boathouse Gallery, housing North America’s largest collection of in-water classic antique wooden boats, the KidZone interactive area, ASHMuskoka and Virtual Sustainability Tours.

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FULL STEAM AHEAD

No visit to Gravenhurst is complete without admiring steamship heritage that’s older than Canada.

Operating from the Muskoka Wharf is the 1887-built, 97-person RMS Segwun, North America’s oldest operating mail steamship, and the Wenonah II, which is a modern interpretation of a traditional steamship, named in honour of Wenonah, the first steamship to sail Lake Muskoka (the Wanda III rounds out the Muskoka Steamships & Discovery Centre company’s fleet).

We enjoyed a 1.5-hour, narrated cruise aboard the Wenonah II, passing such sites as the location of Canada’s first tuberculosis hospital, a cottage once owned by former Blackberry boss Jim Balsillie, and the Gravenhurst narrows, measuring 80 feet across compared to Wenonah II’s 29-foot width.

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The steamships’ cruising seasons begin in June with the Wenonah II setting sail through to Thanksgiving weekend.

“You won’t find anything else like it, not in North America anyway,” said Muskoka Steamships & Discovery Centre president John Miller. “We think we’ve got a pretty cool package here.”

For more information on the Muskoka Steamships & Discovery Centre, visit realmuskoka.com.

WHERE WE STAYED

Visitors looking to maximize their time at the Muskoka Discovery Centre and aboard a steamship cruise should consider a stay at the Residence Inn by Marriott Gravenhurst Muskoka Wharf (marriott.com). The Residence Inn is located mere steps from both attractions and offers a range of accommodations. The indoor pool, included breakfast and ample free parking were especially noteworthy.

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