Susan Fang Fall 2023 Ready-to-Wear Collection

For fall, Susan Fang—who’s one of China’s most promising emerging designers—drew inspiration from the 1986 children’s book Ami, Child of the Stars by Chilean author Enrique Barrios. The protagonist of the story is a young boy who embarks on a mission to spread optimism after hearing a message of hope from an extraterrestrial being. “It might be written for kids, but the philosophy behind the book is clear: What unites us all is love,” she stated at a preview. “And since it is the law of the universe, we should all make an effort to love others and be loved in return.”

The collection was as joy-inducing as the messaging behind it. There were tiered ruffle separates in pastels adorned with meticulously braided details, multi-colored prairie dresses of voluminous proportions, and hand-crocheted gowns with pearlescent trimmings. Fang produced a custom lace fabric adorned with clover and smiley face motifs, too, which she intended for the wearer to receive “blessings” in. Elsewhere, pajamas were transformed into elegant sets with Peter Pan and Puritan collars with embroidered trimmings.

The majority of the collection employed eco-conscious practices, including 3D printed accessories (an extension to Fang’s floral resin bags from last season), and woven laces from repurposed off-cuts. In order to create an assortment of new silhouettes, the designer used leftover yarn, ribbon, and wool from the previous season, which she transformed into crystal-embellished strips. Square-toe slippers were constructed from biodegradable TPU. “It was important for me to consider every material used—the aim, as always, is for nothing to be wasted.” she said.

Fang’s father, who works in Shanghai’s fire safety department, assisted her in making custom water mist pieces out of metallic frames. These futuristic yet exuberant structures included angel wings, a bouncing crinoline skirt, and a full-length dress that emits a rose-scented perfume. Her mother also continued to assist in constructing the garments, as she had done in the past. The tenderness—from her brand’s ethos and its frothy garments, as well as the support from her family—could be felt in the room.