Talia Byre Fall 2023 Ready-to-Wear Collection

Recently, Talia Byre has gone through some changes in her personal life. With such momentous shifts—as well as inspiration from the leading women of films like The Graduate and Funny Girl—the designer wanted to celebrate the ‘anti-hero’ with her fall collection. “The person I’m designing for is brash, greedy, selfish; all of what’s perceived as the worst traits to have,” she said in a preview. “But what’s great about them is that they’re also strong and independent—it’s their way of saying a big ‘fuck you’ to society.”

The collection—titled Sadie, Sadie—explored the sort of wardrobe that an anti-hero figure would aspire to own. There was a duality of toughness while retaining sensuality, whether in the form of screen-printed leopard patterns on wool and cashmere pieces, or figure-hugging maxi dresses in black and dark cherry brown. “This season, sexiness is expressed more subtly,” Byre said. “However, a look can unravel into more daring silhouettes with the undoing of a single button.”

With color being integral to her creative process, Byre took shades from American painter Helen Frankenthaler’s Jacob’s Ladder, including brown, lilac, grapefruit, and emerald green. The tailored coats were particularly strong—one in navy wool with a dangerously high slit up the back, and another featuring a hood constructed from waterproof technical fabric. A cotton poplin shirt dress with woven stripes, a dramatically cinched waist-line, and voluminous sleeves was also worth noting.

In sum, the collection was a departure from the pastels and fluid silhouettes of the previous season, which is a welcome development. It’s refreshing to see Byre push past working predominantly with knit. “I feel like the whole vibe is more grown-up and realistic,” she said. “Life’s not always going to be rosy—sometimes it’s about being tough, taking matters into your own hands, and doing what makes you happy.”