Taste-Off: The best bottled balsamic vinaigrettes — and the worst offenders

There are few things more annoying to salad lovers than bad bottled dressing. Whether it’s a perfect avocado, a plate of tomatoes or a bowl of greens, herbs and veggies, a sad dressing simply ruins everything.

On the hunt for a versatile — and delicious — salad dressing that’s up to the task of ushering in the bounty of summer produce headed our way, we decided to focus on bottled balsamic vinaigrette. A great balsamic dressing can be splashed into spinach salad, drizzled on crostini, dribbled on pizza or used as a marinade.

You’ll find two styles of balsamic dressing on store shelves. One is a classic vinaigrette that separates, with oil on top and vinegar and other ingredients on the bottom. The other is a thick emulsion stabilized with gums or mustard. It’s worth noting that both styles can be quite good.

The best dressings are delicious blends that highlight the complex, fruity flavor and mellow acidity of good quality balsamic vinegar. They can be peppery or herby, sweet or punchy, but whatever the style, they must taste fresh and add to — rather than mask — the flavors of what they dress.

Unfortunately, bad balsamics abound and dodging them is difficult, as labels reveal very little about the flavor inside the bottle. Even promising bottles may be filled with rancid oil or murky seasonings or mixtures laced with cheaper, more acidic vinegars.

Yes, you can make your own balsamic vinaigrette in a matter of minutes, but if you’re buying bottled dressing, here’s the scoop on the brands that will boost your salad game — and the bottles that should be banned from the kitchen. Nutrition info refers to 2 tablespoons.

California Olive Ranch Balsamic Vinaigrette

This is balsamic dressing made right. It’s made with fresh virgin olive oil, rich balsamic vinegar and a handful of herbs. It literally tastes like homemade. 70 calories, 4.5 g fat, 250 mg sodium, 5 g sugar. $6.99 for 10 ounces at Whole Foods. (4 stars)

Brianna’s Home Style New American Creamy Balsamic Dressing

A beautiful balance of salty and sweet, plus a kick of mustard, make for a terrific, herby pour. 150 calories, 14 g fat, 280 mg sodium, 4 g sugar. $4.39 for 12 ounces at Smart & Final. (4 stars)

Trader Joe’s Balsamic Vinaigrette

The sweet flavor of balsamic stirred up with fresh oil and herbs makes this smooth puree a delicious, decidedly sweet pour. 90 calories, 6 g fat, 60 mg sodium, 6 g sugar. $2.79 for 12 ounces. (3½ stars)

365 Whole Foods Organic Balsamic Vinaigrette

While this smooth emulsion could use a bit more balsamic flavor, the hint of sweetness from red peppers and a burst of garlic, onion and herbs make it a good choice for those who prefer their dressing on the savory side. 100 calories, 10 g fat, 210 mg sodium, no sugar. $4.29 for 16 ounces. (3 stars)

Newman’s Own Balsamic Vinaigrette

The balance of herbs, pepper, acid and garlic in this vinaigrette is impressive. The ingredients are not gourmet by any stretch, but it’s a solid choice. 110 calories, 11 g fat, 280 mg sodium, 1 g sugar. $4.49 for 16 ounces at Smart & Final. (3 stars)

Ken’s SteakHouse Simply Vinaigrette Balsamic

There’s nothing remarkable about this standard, slightly peppery vinaigrette, but it will do the job. 100 calories, 10 g fat, 320 mg sodium, 2 g sugar. $4.69 for 16 ounces at Raley’s. (3 stars)

Organicville Balsamic with Olive Oil Vinaigrette & Marinade

This tart, flavor-packed dressing is pleasant, but it’s missing the deep, fruity notes of balsamic vinegar. 60 calories, 6 g fat, 240 mg sodium, 1 g sugar. $5.19 for 8 ounces at Raley’s. (2½ stars)

Annie’s Balsamic Vinaigrette

This low-sodium, low-sugar dressing is a good choice for those on special diets, but it lacks the lively flavor of a traditional vinaigrette. 100 calories, 10 g fat, 60 mg sodium, 1 g sugar. $5.99 for 8 ounces at Whole Foods. (2 stars)

Nob Hill Creamy Balsamic Salad Dressing

Those who enjoy sweet dressing may like this. It has lots of fresh black pepper and the big fig-molasses notes of authentic balsamic vinegar — but it’s very sweet. Reserve this one for a drizzle on fruit or even ice cream.140 calories, 12 g fat, 290 mg sodium, 5 g sugar. $4.19 for 12 ounces at Raley’s. (2 stars)

Kraft Balsamic Vinaigrette Dressing

This deep brown dressing looks like gravy and lacks freshness, but a generous dash of mustard saves it from the bottom of the list. 70 calories, 5 g fat, 370 mg sodium, 4 g sugar. $5.99 for 16 ounces at Safeway. (1½ stars)

First Street Balsamic Vinaigrette Dressing & Marinade

The liquid at the top of this bottle is flavorless oil; the bottom is a concoction that tastes sharp, salty and far more acidic than high quality balsamic should be. 50 calories, 4 g fat, 450 mg sodium, 3 g sugar. $2.39 for 16 ounces at Smart & Final. (1½ stars)

Raley’s Balsamic Vinaigrette Salad Dressing