Taste-Off: The best smoky barbecue sauces at supermarkets (and the gloopiest)

Whether it’s slathered on ribs, brushed on a pizza, dumped into a pot of beans or tossed with chicken for a slider, a thick pour of smoky, sweet and spicy barbecue sauce adds a blast of flavor that can turn just about any meal from ordinary to memorable.

It’s not hard to make a decent BBQ sauce, as most are made with the same basic ingredients: tomato, vinegar, sugar, spice and smoke. But exactly how much of each ingredient is key to hitting that crave-worthy note of yumminess.

Market shelves are packed with options, including flavor variations such as garlic, mustard and chipotle, plus a handful of regional sauces that lean into vinegar or smoke. For this Taste-Off, we checked out some of the most promising bottles and jars of smoke-flavored sauces. (Note that the sheer number of sauce options made it impossible to try them all.)

Tasting through the sauces was a true flavor adventure, as every sauce is distinctive. Some are distinctly boring, of course, but others incorporate an unlikely collection of ingredients; apples, pineapple, tamarind, raisins, orange juice, chipotle, coriander and more.

The best smoky barbecue sauces are rich and thick, sweet and acidic with bold, complex flavors thanks to a great balance of ingredients. Lesser sauces have the requisite flavor notes, but they’re unbalanced — and the worst are flat, single-note flavor fails.

Here’s the scoop on the smoky sauces that will up your grilling game — and the saucy disasters to avoid. Nutrition info refers to 2 tablespoons of sauce.

Rufus Teague Touch O’Heat

The combination of raisins, orange, mustard and corianders deliver an intriguing mouthful of deep, lingering flavor that’s so delicious, it’s tempting to eat it with a spoon. 70 calories, 370 mg sodium, 15 g sugar. $7.39 for 15.25 ounces at Whole Foods. (4 stars)

Lillie’s Q Smoky Memphis-Style Barbeque Sauce

A fresh mingle of spice, citrus, mustard and so much more make this a standout sauce. It’s guaranteed to turn any protein into a menu superstar. Note that the consistency is thin, making it perfect as a marinade, too. 50 calories, 250 mg sodium, 9 g sugar. $9.99 for 20 ounces Safeway. (4 stars)

J. Wilbur Hickory Smoke Barbecue Sauce

Rich, thick and laced with a blast of smoke and sweet, this sauce is as good as homemade. A touch less sugar would make it perfect. 45 calories, 190 mg sodium, 10 g sugar. $6.79 for 18 ounces at Whole Foods. (3½ stars)

Chef Hak’s Organic Chipotle Bourbon BBQ Sauce

A hit of ancho chile and layers of spice in a sweet-sour pool of deliciousness makes this a fun take on barbecue sauce. Just be aware that the smoke note is understated. 45 calories, 170 mg sodium, 9 g sugar. $7.79 for 14.25 ounces at Whole Foods. (3 stars)

Trader Joe’s Organic Kansas City Style BBQ Sauce

This may not have the complexity of the top sauces, but it drops such a savory balance of spice, smoke, acid and sweetness that it demands a second, third and fourth taste. It’s a great pantry staple. 45 calories, 250 mg sodium, 10 g sugar. $2.99 for 19 ounces. (3 stars)

Everett and Jones Super Q Barbecue Sauce

Those with a passion for all things hot should check out this thick, beyond-hot sauce with an overwhelming punch of smoke. It’s not for everyone, and it is far too sweet, but the heat component is real. 60 calories, 250 mg sodium,15 g sugar. $6.99 for 18 ounces at Whole Foods. (2 stars)

Stubb’s Hickory Bourbon Bar-B-Q Sauce

Lots of smoke and plenty of sugar make this an OK sauce, but it is sorely lacking in other flavors. 45 calories, 270 mg sodium, 8 g sugar. $6.99 for 18 ounces at Safeway. (2 stars)

Halo + Cleaver Sweet + Smoky Backyard BBQ Sauce

Fruit lovers might enjoy this apple- and tomato-forward sauce. Maybe. It’s fruity, but super acidic and wildly out of balance. 25 calories, 160 mg sodium, 4 g sugar. $5.99 for 13 ounces at Raley’s. (1½ stars)

365 Original Barbecue Sauce

Cracked black pepper underscored by smoke and sweetness make this a fair choice in a pinch. It’s not complex, and it has a gluey consistency, but it works. 50 calories, 250 mg sodium, 11 g sugar. $1.89 for 19.5 ounces at Whole Foods. (1½ stars)

Noble Made Less-Sugar Smoky BBQ Sauce

The attempt to cut the sugar is a win, but the flavor imbalance isn’t likely to please. It tastes like stewed tomatoes with apple vinegar, with a mere hint of barbecue flavors. 20 calories, 290 mg sodium, 3 g sugar. $7.99 for 13 ounces at Whole Foods. (1 star)

Sweet Baby Ray’s Hickory & Brown Sugar Barbecue Sauce

The label’s line-up of sugar from five different sources tell the story of this sauce. It’s so sweet, it tastes like dessert. Serve this one to the kids, if you must. 70 calories, 290 mg sodium, 17 g sugar. $3.99 for 18 ounces at Safeway. (½ a star)