Taste-Off: The most delicious fruit-flavored ice tea — and the worst

Summer hydration starts with water, but when the palate begs for a change, there’s everything right about a deep pour of thirst-quenching, fruit-flavored iced tea.

Quick, easy and somewhat healthy, tea falls into the “functional beverage” category, as it’s a source of antioxidants and polyphenols and delivers a touch of caffeine to boost energy and alertness.

Bottles and cans of tea come in too many flavors to count, but the most popular on store shelves are black and green teas enhanced with lemon, raspberry, mint or peach. They can be sweet or tart, bitter or bubbly, and are sometimes laced with vitamins. For this feature, we loaded up on non-citrus, fruity teas. As peach seems to be one of the most popular, we opted for that fruit whenever possible.

The best ready to drink, fruit-flavored iced teas have deep brewed tea flavor and a juicy dash of authentic, aromatic fruit flavor. Whether sweet or plain, they are so well balanced that all the flavors shine. Bad bottled ice teas are nothing more than sugary water. The worst have strange, off-putting flavors that make plain tap water seem like a treat.

Here’s the scoop on the fruit-flavored iced teas to please and the sad, syrupy ones to avoid. Nutrition info refers to 16 ounces.

Just Ice Tea Peach Oolong

Authentic brewed tea laced with a hint of peach make this lightly sweetened beverage stand out. 60 calories, 16 g sugar. $2.79 for 16 ounces at Whole Foods. (4 stars)

Tejava Pineapple Mango Black Tea

Fans of unsweetened tea will appreciate this fresh, bold black tea with a kick of pineapple and mango flavors. No calories, no sugar. $1.99 for 16.9 ounces at Safeway. (4 stars)

Pure Leaf Raspberry Real Brewed Tea

Raspberry essence and lots of sugar take the bitter edge off the robust black tea in this mix. 156 calories, 4 mg sodium, 40 g sugar. $1.50 for 18.5 ounces at Raley’s. (3½ stars)

Steaz Organic Green Tea with Peach

This refreshing tea is definitely understated, but minimal sugar allows the delicate green tea and peach to shine. 90 calories, 15 mg sodium, 17 g sugar. $2.49 for 16 ounces at Smart & Final. (3 stars)

Peace Tea Just Peachy

Those who love a tall glass of juice may enjoy this peachy pour, but don’t expect it to taste anything like tea. 104 calories, 27 g sugar. $2.15 for 23 ounces at Raley’s. (2½ stars)

Arizona Real Brewed Iced Tea with Peach

Calling this sweet swig “real brewed” is a stretch, as the flavor of tea is nominal at best. That said, those who appreciate sweet tea will find it entirely drinkable. 196 calories, 18 mg sodium, 49 g sugar. 99 cents for 22 ounces at Safeway. (2 stars)

Liquid Death Rest in Peach Iced Tea

Vitamins in a glass of peachy tea is an enticing idea, but be aware that this drink has a distinct sour note. 25 calories, 13 mg sodium, 5 g sugar. 19.2 ounces. $2.99 for 19.2 ounces at Whole Foods. (1½ stars)

Saint James Organic Green Tea with Passion Fruit & Peach

The idea of this flavor combo is much better than the reality. It’s watery, and the use of stevia gives it an odd aftertaste. 24 calories, 14 mg sodium, 4 g sugar. $2.50 for 16.9 ounces at Raley’s. (1½ stars)