The ‘cub cut’ is spring’s dreamy take on the bob

Bob haircuts are so popular right now, they’re breeding like rabbits. Yet somehow every variation seems more convincing and flattering than the last. Which brings us to the “cub cut”, the latest style to elevate a run-of-the-mill bob.

Despite its cutesy name, the cub cut combines sophistication with just the right amount of French-Girl nonchalance. It carves out cheekbones. It has choppy layers galore. More importantly, it is shaping up to be the cut everyone is going to be asking their hairstylist for this spring. 

So what exactly is the cub cut? Put simply, it’s the bob version of the infamous wolf cut. “Think of it as a mix between a shag, a mullet and a bob,” says hairstylist Syd Hayes. It retains a lot of the same DNA as the wolf cut, including the razored edges, which hairstylist Jordan Garrett says “prevents any harsh lines or heaviness and provides an even weight distribution throughout.” 

But that’s where the similarities end. “The wolf cut is a lot longer and softer than the cub cut,” says Jordan. While the wolf cut has more of a soft-focus 70s vibe, the cub cut has either a touch of the 80s about it or edgy pieces reminiscent of 90s grunge.  Either way, executed well, the cub cut is like the wolf cut’s cooler, edgier cousin. 

By ending at shoulder or chin length, the cub cut also has a distinct style that sets it apart from other bobs such as the Italian bob, box bob and rolled bob. “Everyone has bobs, curtain fringes and shags but with the cub cut it gives us a whole new take,” Jordan notes. “It’s definitely for clients who want something more extreme but still laidback.”

According to the experts, layers have never been so cool, from the choppy fringe that Jennifer Lopez recently debuted to ghost layers. For this reason, Syd predicts that the cub cut is going to have a real moment this spring. “It’s effortless and free spirited,” he says. Just look at Jenna Ortega. One of the first celebrities to jump on the cub cut, she recently swapped her longer locks for shaggy layers and mullet style pieces to frame her face. 

Thinking of getting a cub cut? If the easy answer is ‘yes’, ask your hairstylist for “soft layers and a relaxed bob shape,” says Syd. “But take in lots of reference images to show what you mean as not all hairdressers will know what the ‘cub cut’ is,” he adds.

It also pays to understand how to style the cub cut properly. While it is suited to all hair textures, going in hard with heated tools makes the look too polished. A heated brush will lay down a straight fringe but cosy up to the diffuser attachment of your hair dryer for the rest of your hair. “A diffuser is your best friend for the cub cut as it enhances the natural texture of the hair,” Syd says. “Add in some grit and volume with Sam McKnight’s Cool Girl Superlift Volumising Spray to prep the hair first,” he says, before using the BaByliss Hydro-Fusion Hair Dryer and finish with a blast of texture spray.