The Expert-Approved Dos and Don’ts of Laser Hair Removal on Melanated Skin

As Bagby explained to me, laser hair removal is the semipermanent process of using a laser to reduce the amount of hair you have in an area by targeting the pigment of the hair follicle, typically providing 70 to 80% reduction. It’s recommended to shave 24 to 48 hours prior to the appointment so that the laser can effectively target the bulb of the hair follicle. “At SkinSpirit, we utilize the Candela, which has an Alexandrite (perfect for lighter skin tones) and a YAG (perfect for brown or darker skin tones). Based on an assessment, your provider will determine what setting is best and safest for you,” says Bagby.

It should be noted, however, that deeper skin tones are at a greater risk for burns, hyperpigmentation, and hypopigmentation because the laser targets pigments. “Burns arise from unsafe settings or treating freshly sun-exposed skin, especially when treating deep skin tones,” the skincare practitioner explains. “Chances of hyperpigmentation and hypopigmentation can be increased when treating sun-exposed or freshly tanned skin as well.” With that in mind, it’s important to utilize a physical sunscreen on treated areas.

When undergoing any laser treatment, whether it’s hair removal or the use of resurfacing technology, it’s important to discuss the best course of action with your provider. Laser hair removal, specifically, is done over multiple treatment sessions. “The goal is to catch the hair in the active growth phase to increase the chances of reduction. Typically, 10% reduction is seen after every appointment. Additionally, the hair will start to become thinner and patchier,” Bagby explains. It can take up to 10 sessions to reach reduction goals spaced out in one-week spans. 

Depending on genetics, hormones, and medical conditions, the effectiveness of laser hair removal can vary. “Certain conditions such as PCOS fight against hair reduction. These patients may never reach their goal but instead may find an easier way to maintain hair growth,” says Bagby. No matter your skin tone, laser hair removal is definitely not a one-stop shop, but if done correctly and thoughtfully, it can completely transform your experience with hair removal for the better.