The Makanai: Cooking for the Maiko House, Netflix review — gentle drama of trainee geisha

We’ve had Tokyo Vice, now it’s time for some Kyoto wholesomeness. The Makanai: Cooking for the Maiko House is a charming new Japanese-language series created for Netflix by Palme d’Or-winning director Hirokazu Kore-eda (Shoplifters). Based on a popular manga, The Makanai captures the quiet, quaint and codified existence of the trainee geisha (or maiko) living in a small boarding school. Unexpectedly, it is set in the present day.

Then again, time seems to be almost suspended here — both in the modernity-shunning customs followed at Saku House and the unhurried approach of the series itself. This is the kind of drama that luxuriates in detail and takes its time to draw out moments of beauty, feeling and wisdom from daily life.

At the centre of the story are two 16-year-old girls who hope to become the next heirs of an ancient but long-fading tradition — an art now largely reduced to performing for sozzled salarymen. While Sumire (Yuuki Luna) demonstrates all the required poise and refinement, her friend Kiyo (Nana Mori) proves ungainly and distracted by whatever’s happening in the kitchen. Though disappointed to be expelled from the training programme, the latter quickly finds herself in her element when given the chance to take over as the house cook (or makanai).

The specific terms and various maiko practices are sparingly explained in a show that pleasingly makes little direct attempt to spoon-feed western audiences or fetishise geisha culture. More generally, it seems averse to high narrative stakes, interpersonal friction and cynicism. While not oblivious to the strains of this most unusual lifestyle — in which girls are literally prohibited from letting their hair down — The Makanai often simply lets minor tensions dissipate in lingering shots of Kiyo’s culinary concoctions.

Some viewers might find themselves craving more of a plot to bite into. But this tale of friendship, small pleasures and gentle longing is nothing less than a warming, spirit-nourishing delicacy.

★★★★☆

On Netflix now