The Michelin stars arrived in Toronto and conquered a city just waiting for that global recognition

Article content

We’ve always known Toronto to be a world class food city. Having the official Michelin Guide finally show up and give the credibility Canada’s culinary industry deserves, seals the deal. And that’s exactly what happened this week, when Michelin officials – with all the pomp and circumstances, and a big, Casper the Friendly Ghost-like mascot in tow – finally revealed who in Toronto would be pinning those coveted stars on their menus.

Article content

Toronto is the first Canadian city to get the Michelin experience, with Vancouver coming up next. Other Canadian cities are also on the planning board.

Article content

It means serious gourmands across the globe are paying special attention to Canada. Interests have been piqued, travel plans have been re-jigged, serious eaters are heading our way, culinary travel will become standard buzzwords in the vacation industry.

During the recent unveiling of the Michelin guide that took place in Toronto’s historical Evergreen Brick Works, 13 restaurants in total received Michelin stars – 12 received one star, while one, Sushi Masaki Saito Japanese restaurant in the city’s west-end, received two. (Seventeen restaurants received a “Bib Gourmand” ranking, which basically translates into great food at affordable prices – something to consider when you see just how expensive it can get to eat in a Michelin-star restaurant.)

One suspects the city was full of brokenhearted chefs that evening, when word came their eateries weren’t in the running. But, officials were quick to point out that “this is only the beginning – this is the very first guide. There will be others.”

Executive chef, Masaki Saito was happy and jovial when he went up on stage to accept his two-star award, cracking a few jokes and wowing the crowds. This guy could do stand-up – and it’s already been posted on the restaurant’s Instagram account “authentic Japanese sushi omakase experience by the first and only Michelin 2 star chef stationing in Canada.”

Article content

That’s it, rub it in.

I suspect it’s easier to get two seats on the moon right now than it is to get a couple at Saito’s restaurant – reservations were mighty packed before the official Michelin announcements, but now? Well, the restaurant’s website has been crashing non-stop up to the time of finishing off this story.

So be patient – and be prepared for the steep prices, as dinner for one can run you close to $700 per person.

Plus, the restaurant has standards to uphold. Word is, before the website crashed, there were stern admonishments of absolutely no birthday cakes being allowed. (The whole thing kind of reminded me of the hilarious Seinfeld episode featuring the stern-faced Soup Nazi. No birthday cake for you! But I digress.)

Article content

Kidding aside, Toronto’s food community is giddy with these new anointments, even if some of the fine dining establishments have pricetags that could buy you a small car.  The reality is – this is good for the nation, and Michelin officials are just as excited to be part of the experience, looking at Canada as new frontier.

“This city has such a culinary vibrancy, with more potential to come, and contributions to continue,” said Gwendal Poullennec, the international director of Michelin Guides in a recent call with the Toronto Sun. “We’ve been very impressed by the city’s authenticity (and) look forward to more contributions…Toronto should be proud!”

One thing I discovered during the evening was how supportive the industry is of one another. “I’m so excited!” said Jason Bangerter, executive chef of the ubiquitous Langdon Hall Country House Hotel and Spa in Cambridge – and a serious contender for a couple of Michelin stars when they become available in his neighbourhood. “This is historical on so many levels, not only for Toronto, but for all of Canada. Here’s the thing – it just grows from here. There will be other guides, and more restaurants being added. This is just the start, and I couldn’t be happier for the industry and for all of us!”

Article content

How do the Michelin star ratings work?

According to the actual Michelin guide, which is free,(guide.michelin.com/ca/en/ontario/toronto/restaurants), Michelin gives out up to three stars, with only the world’s most distinguished dining establishments attaining that coveted third star. One Michelin star represents a “very good restaurant in its category,” while two stars denotes a restaurant boasting “excellent cooking” that is “worth a detour.” Three stars, however, is the ultimate award, given only to those restaurants that offer “exceptional cuisine” that is “worth a special journey.”

Who tests the restaurants?

It’s all done very hush-hush, with the identities of the anonymous inspectors held in the strictest secrecy. We know – we spoke with one anonymous inspector, who told us exclusively what it was like to be an inspector for Michelin:

Article content

“Regardless of where the inspectors are located, we travel the world, and Canada and Toronto are no exception to the identical regulations (used),” said the inspector during a clandestine phone interview. “The same criteria is across the board, and applicable to every single restaurant, regardless as to where it’s located,” they said, adding, “The guide is “an absolutely independent publication.”

The inspector went on to say “this isn’t about likes or dislikes, and there are no personal biases. We adhere to a specific five-point criteria, with a consistency to the experience.”

How do you find out about restaurants to investigate?

“Surprisingly, we rely on local research, local newspapers, blogs and chef recommendations to start.”

What’s it take to be an anonymous inspector?

“Well, you have to have a passion for the culinary world, a good eye for detail and recall, great taste memory, and a dedication to what you do. Remember – you can’t tell anyone who you are and what you, to keep the integrity of the work. It’s difficult.” And you have to keep it a secret.