This Italian Jewelry Designer Draws Inspiration From Art, Folklore And Tribal Cultures

A graduate of Ca’ Foscari University of Venice, Valeria Bersanetti began her career designing jewelry and leather goods for Marni in Milan from 2005 to 2017, before launching her own brand Adais in 2018, which expresses her passion for fashion and art. Drawing from the worlds of art and folklore, her creative approach stems from in-depth research on tribal cultures and the styles of various ethnic groups, from South America, the Far North and Mexican Modernism to German Brutalism, Minimalism, Bauhaus and the feminine esthetic of the early 20^th century. At the same time, artists like Louise Bourgeois, Joana Vasconcelos and Richard Serra or designers like Eileen Gray and Ettore Sottsass are points of reference for the Milan- and Rimini-based designer, who works with artisans in Arezzo in Tuscany to craft jewels characterized by a contrast of textures, shapes and materials.

How did you arrive at this calling? How and when did you become interested in jewelry, and when did you know you wanted to be a jewelry designer?

Through my dear friend Marco Sammicheli. I discovered a love for fine jewelry and fashion jewelry in particular around the age of 20 at the fashion school I was attending. I had never thought about this reality specifically, but rather pursued my own search for beauty in general. Through some brief experiences in the sector, I refined my skills, tastes and above all my interest in the world of jewelry, and with my entry into the bijoux style office of Marni fashion house in 2014, I totally discovered this unconditional love that turned a hobby into a fantastic job. This experience definitively strengthened my passion and need to express myself through jewelry.

Describe to me your design language and philosophy. What are your sources of inspiration? How are you adopting a different approach and mentality to jewelry making, away from traditional jewelry?

My inspirations always draw from the world of art in 360 degrees, from the primitive world to the folklore of various countries and historical periods. My creative language is simple and direct in form, but at the same time, it contains all my experiences and weaknesses. Each of my creations, whether for my own brand or for clients, is the result of great study, long reasoning and emotions that are then internalized in the search for the right esthetic harmony and dialog with the rest of the collection. The collections that I create for my brand and for some specific customers do not seek the consent of fashionable trends, but are the result of an expressive need to describe through my eyes my esthetic vision of beauty. Therefore, sometimes they are very different from each other and often also require the use of other materials.

What is your approach towards gold, and how is this reflected in your jewelry creations?

I love gold in all its shades. As you know, my objects are galvanized in 50 microns of gold (of which I do not know the origin) and the base is brass. Nevertheless, the levels reached in brass processing allow for exceptional results. The use of brass and the addition of gold plating leave me completely satisfied. However, I do not deny that I would like to start making gold jewels to give completeness to the esthetic path undertaken over the past few years already.

What new innovative techniques or technologies do you incorporate in your jewelry making, and who are the artisans you work with?

My creations are made in Italy by Italian artisans. I often use the electroforming technique in my creations.

Describe three of your favorite jewels that you designed that use gold.

The Flintstones earrings for Colville because they mark the beginning of the super creative work I do for them; the Adais Leaf pendant for its simplicity; and the Hieroglyphic earrings for Colville because they are ultra-chic.