Tips from the top: a culinary tour of Paris with chef Assaf Granit

This article is part of a guide to Paris from FT Globetrotter

Paris has always been the Mecca of the culinary world for me: it’s an inspiring city to be in as a chef, taking in some of the greatest restaurants in the world and having access to the highest-quality ingredients. I’m currently in the French capital once a week while we open our latest venture there, and there are several restaurants and shops that I find myself going back to again and again.

One such place is Chez L’Ami Louis (32 Rue du Vertbois, 3rd arrondissement), a 12-table restaurant that has been open for nearly 100 years. I’ve come here since I was a young chef and have been served by the same staff for two decades. Chez L’Ami Louis is one of the world’s most famous bistros; it is certainly one of the most authentic in Paris. The food is traditional, with classic dishes such as roast chicken and côte de boeuf with frites, and it has a fantastic wine cellar. It’s very French: I once dined there and saw a couple of American tourists at a neighbouring table request ketchup for their steak, only to be met by an unimpressed waiter who kept repeating the word moutarde until the diners finally relented and accepted mustard instead.

Another favourite, especially when I have guests to impress, is L’Ami Jean (27 Rue Malar, 7th arr.), a Basque restaurant owned by Brittany-born chef Stéphane Jégo. It’s a small, convivial bistro with a relaxed approach that reminds me of my first restaurant in Jerusalem, Machneyuda. The menu offers traditional dishes like stews, whole chicken and baked fish in salt but with innovative touches. Jégo draws influence from his frequent travels; you can tell where he has recently visited based on the twists he puts on his dishes.

A highlight from my most recent meal there was a Jerusalem artichoke soup and a truffle terrine. The restaurant has an almost party-like atmosphere: it’s compact, crowded and vibrant. Jégo used to be a rugby player and you can hear him shouting in the kitchen but it all adds to the feeling that you are somewhere slightly out of this world.

I have to visit Pierre Marcolini (89 Rue de Seine, 6th arr.) — the best chocolatier in the city. This particular shop is fairly close to my restaurant, Balagan, and I find myself popping round the corner in the middle of the day to buy a couple of perfectly crafted chocolates for a little pick-me-up. Marcolini started with a small shop in Brussels; now his brand is world-renowned and collaborates with fashion designers, but no matter which shop you visit, it still feels like you’ve stumbled upon a small, independent chocolatier with special handcrafted treats.

As a chef, shops are just as inspiring to me as restaurants. One of my favourites in Paris is Le Palais du Fruit (62-74 Rue Montorgueil, 2nd arr.), a fruit and vegetable shop — and a feast for the eyes. My sous-chef and I visit regularly to check out the seasonal produce, which is always very high quality. It feels like a jewellery shop with everything so beautifully presented and carefully placed on the shelves.

Another playground for the team is A. Simon (48 Rue Montmartre, 2nd arr.) which is a treasure trove for anyone who loves to cook — professionally or otherwise. This kitchen and cooking supply store sells a large range of top-of-the-line products manufactured in France (at a reasonable price). Like any chef, I’m always on the lookout for copper pots and pans to add to my collection.

Finally, it would be remiss of me not to mention cheese. La Fermette (86 Rue Montorgueil, 2nd arr.) stocks cheese from all over France (as well as sausages, charcuterie and pâtés) and showcases suppliers from specific villages and regions. It’s heavenly — I can happily spend an hour tasting and discovering what’s on offer. One can easily lose track of time here, and where better to do that than a fromagerie?

Assaf Granit runs restaurants around the world, including Coal Office in partnership with designer Tom Dixon in London and, in Paris, Michelin-starred Shabour, Balagan and a recent plant-based opening, Tekés

What are your favourite food destinations in Paris? Tell us in the comments

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