Touch of sweetness: How Mumbai’s Goans are using black jaggery to stay true to culture, memories

JW Marriott Mumbai Sahar recently hosted a limited-edition Goan menu as their first pop-up in their ongoing series, Gourmet Travelogues to showcase the culinary diversity of Goa. With Goan black jaggery being a favourite of executive chef Dane Fernandes, we take a look at how he uses the ingredient and learn more from a city-based home chef about i

The jaggery is primarily made from the sap of the coconut palm or from sugarcane and sold in Goa’s markets in a distinctive pyramid shape. Photo Courtesy: Marian D’costa

For Bandra-based Genevieve Gonsalves, Goan black jaggery holds a very special place in her home. It is not just any ingredient but one that evokes many emotions and the taste of which she yearns for. It makes her nostalgic and reminds Gonsalves of her mother, who passed away years ago, and the time she spent in the sunshine state as a young girl. She says, “My mom used to prepare many dishes with the Goan jaggery. She used to prepare tizan (a Goan porridge), alle belle (Goan pancake with coconut), fov (made from flat rice) – all of which have jaggery in them.” Like many other Goan families, Gonsalves’s mother also made patoleos (sweet pancakes) for August 15, celebrated as the Feast of the Assumption, among the Catholic community. “Papa would also give us a slice of coconut and jaggery on the first of the month.”