Trapiche Brought Modern Tech And Sustainability To Argentina’s Vineyards

The emergence of South American quality wines in the 21^st century is quite an achievement, given that there was so much poor quality in the past, not least in Argentina, where the predominant grape for hundreds of years was criolla chica (Mission or Pais). By the 1950s quantity rather than quality was industry’s focus, but although wine consumption dropped in the 1980s and political stability was injurious to the wineries, with a consequent reduction in vineyard acreage, by the 1990s, with new plantings of Malbec in the rich region of Mendoza, the industry rebounded, led by well-established companies like Trapiche, founded in 1883 and now producing more than 3.5 million cases of wine per year and exports to more than 80 countries.

To assess modern viticulture in Argentina—now the world’s largest producer—I had dinner in New York with Sergio Casé, chief winemaker at Trapiche.

Since Trapiche was well situated for the rebound of Argentinean viticulture, what long-term plans were set in motion in the 1990s?

We envisioned a plan to cultivate our vineyards in high-quality areas, such as the Uco Valley, while preserving the traditional areas of Mendoza that have historically produced outstanding wines, such as the First Zone (Maipú and Luján, over 850 meters above sea level). With the appropriate vineyards, the proper technology, and the finest wines, our sales team began to specialize and to embark on international trips, thereby boosting the popularity of Argentine wines in the United States and Europe.

Besides Malbec, was Trapiche making other wines and blends in the 1990s?

Wine consumption in Argentina has traditionally relied on Bonarda, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay grapes, but, with the discovery of new regions, Malbec has been studied and consolidated on the eastern slope of the Andes mountain range. This boosted our confidence to venture with Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, and Mediterranean varieties, including Syrah, Mouvèdre, Garnacha, Marsanne and Roussanne.

How long have you been making Chardonnay and what distinguishes yours from other South American examples?

In 2000, we began to focus more on Chardonnay. Initially, the vineyards were located in lower areas and were of slightly higher quality, producing aromas reminiscent of ripe tropical fruit and honey. However, over time, Chardonnay was grown in higher altitudes of the Uco valley, and we have been able to obtain other fruit notes, such as fresh pineapple, pear, stone fruits, and even some citrus aromas with a very good acidity, which combined with its controlled malolactic fermentation and a careful barrel selection positioned Trapiche’s at the pinnacle of the world’s greatest Chardonnays.

Has phylloxera ever been a problem in Argentina?

It is believed that vines from Bordeaux were imported into Argentina in 1878. As of 1936, the rate of spread of phylloxera in the Mendoza region was rapid, with the affected area increasing from 840 acres in 1937/1938 to 2,322 acres in 1941. In 1958, it was estimated that 70% of the vineyard area in Mendoza was infected with it, whereas only 8% had resistant rootstock. In contrast to Europe, Argentina did not

experience a phylloxera crisis that had significant economic repercussions. Apparently, the ecological conditions allowed for appropriate vine vegetative vigor, hence allowing coexistence with the pest.

How does the cool climate of Mendoza work to make better wines?

The province of Mendoza is located in an area classified as a continental climate, and it has particular mesoclimate areas with greater cooling that are ideal for the growing of high-quality grapes. On these regions, located in the foothills of the Andes and notably in the Uco Valley, maximum temperatures do not surpass 25-26°C during the day and 10°C at night. This thermal amplitude is essential for the management of aromatic components in grapes and high polyphenol concentration.

Has the climate been warming there?

According to scientific studies of the region, rainfall has declined, which is why Mendoza has been in a state of water emergency for the past thirteen years. This is one of the reasons why the Uco Valley has favorable conditions for high-quality grapes winemaking, along with the widespread implementation of high-tech, pressurized irrigation that makes more efficient use of water.

Do you seek to have your wines come in below 15% alcohol?

In general, the alcohol content of our high-quality wines ranges between 14% and 15%. When grapes reach these values, there is a perfect balance between polyphenolic maturity of the grape, aromas, and structure. These traits are what give Argentine wines their uniqueness.

The pricing on your best wines is very reasonable in the market. How do you manage to keep it that way?

Bodega Trapiche’s wines are well known to be of outstanding quality and competitive prices. Each of our agronomic, winemaking, and monetary operations is always scrutinized with the goal of improving efficiency. To achieve a healthy technological and economic balance, we employ cutting-edge technologies.

Argentina is experiencing terrible inflation now of up to 80%. How does the wine industry cope with that? Are all international sales in U.S. dollars?

The problem is not inflation itself, but the fact that the exchange rate does not increase at the same velocity. That generates an important problem because costs in pesos increase rapidly, and revenue measured in pesos does not. Even though sales are in U.S. dollars, legally companies have to sell these dollars and transform the income into pesos. Eventually, a devaluation will happen, and revenue will catch up, but in the meantime, export wineries are having a difficult time, particularly for entry-level wines.

Tell me about your 100% Cabernet Sauvignon and why it is not blended with other Bordeaux-style varietals.

Our Cabernet vineyards are sourced from unique regions, such as the southern region of the Uco Valley, where our El Milagro vineyard is located and yields the fruit for our Trapiche Gran Medalla, or an old vineyard planted in 1960, like the Trapiche Terroir Vineyard. The Leon Laborde series has its own distinct character and does not need to be blended with any other Bordeaux grape. These wines are featured with remarkable generosity, each containing a distinctive style that is worthy of admiration and enjoyment on its own.

Your highly regarded Iscay Malbec has some Cabernet Franc in it. Why?

In the past fifteen years, Cabernet Franc has been cultivated in fertile soils that, when combined with the agro-climatic conditions of the Uco Valley, produce wines of exceptional elegance and freshness. After this variety is paired with Malbec from the upper region of the Uco Valley (Gualtallary at 1,400 meters), where the soils are more calcarous, it results in a perfect combination of powerful color and clear aromas of fresh red fruit from Malbec, transforming Iscay into one of the greatest wines of Argentina whose reputation extends beyond Argentine borders.

Are there many women in the industry, especially at Trapiche?

My winemaking team at Trapiche consists of seven persons, four of whom are women. As an organization, we hire committed, industry-passionate professionals.

You are a member of a fourth-generation wine family. What experience did you learn in Europe that affected your winemaking at Trapiche?

My experience is centered on the many regions of France and is complemented by regions of Italy like Tuscany, where I honed my skills in waiting for the perfect ripeness and interpreting each terroir to capture the greatest expression of the soil in a glass.

Why was Medalla created? And Iscay?

In 1983, as a homage to the winery’s 100th anniversary, Trapiche Medalla, a top-notch wine made with grapes from the First Zone, was released. Its essentially old vines have delivered the most awarded Argentine wines for decades. The wine was originally crafted primarily with Cabernet Sauvignon and minor contents of Malbec and Merlot, and now, it is also blended with Cabernet Franc.

Iscay, which means “two” in Quechua (the original language of the Andean region), depicts the union of two components: viticulture, a bond between the terroir and the vine, and oenology, a fusion of Science and Art. This rare Argentine specimen, an emblem of Trapiche, is the product of two concepts, a blend of two grape varieties to achieve the highest quality grapes and to produce the most premium wine.

Does Trapiche have a visitor’s center?

Yes, indeed, it has an amazing visitor center and a first-class restaurant. Trapiche opened the doors to their new winery in 2008 and welcomes visitors for tours daily, from Monday to Friday, 9am to 5pm, and on Saturdays and Sundays from 10 am to 3pm. Visit Trapiche Winery at this address: Nueva Mayorga s/n street (M5522CHA), Coquimbito, Maipú