Know what to check after your car strikes a nasty crater.
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First off: relax, we’re not trying to convince you to trade in your ultra-efficient hybrid compact for a gas-guzzling one-ton rock-crawler just to navigate our pock-marked commuter trails. We just want to point out what actually causes the damage when your ride hits a pothole, how some vehicles react differently than others, what to look for after a crater impact, and what you can expect your repair shop to tell you.
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The physics of a pothole hit are simple but vary depending on size, speed, and whether or not braking is involved.
When the road drops out from under a wheel, the suspension will extend. If the hole is deep enough (and they often are), the tire will hit the bottom with the full weight of the vehicle crashing down on top of it. In another common scenario, if the vehicle is moving fast enough, the tire that dipped into the denture-rattler won’t hit the bottom of the hole and will instead hit the crater’s forward edge, the tire’s tread-face taking the full impact. If the brakes are locked on during this type of meeting between the rubber and the road, you can expect the damage to be worse than if the brakes weren’t applied. Either of these cases can lead to bent control arms, blown tires, cracked or deformed wheel rims, damaged struts, and possibly more. Repair expenses often exceed $1,000 or more, and no, you’re not likely to get any financial relief from the roads’ owners, (e.g. municipalities or provinces).
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So what makes a particular type of vehicle better able to handle potholes? Or what types and what features make them more prone to damage?
First, the lower a vehicle sits, the more likely it is to suffer damage. Shorter compacts, sub-compacts, sports coupes, and sedans have less suspension-travel leeway and can often see bumper covers and lower air dams destroyed as well as suspension and steering components.
If your ride has ultra-wide alloy rims, you should start saving up for one or two replacements before pothole season hits. This type of wheel is especially susceptible to impacts, and the damage isn’t always visible from the outside. Their weakest point is on the inside of the rim edge, so if you’re doing a little roadside damage assessment after a particularly nasty jolt, turn your steering wheel or hold your smartphone camera to get a view of this area.
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If you chose your vehicle for fuel economy or sporting performance, that usually means lighter-weight construction and more damage. Lighter suspension components bend sooner under stress, and especially under the forces of a pothole impact. If you opted for any ground-effects package with low-clearance front bumpers, you can also expect these to need replacement or repair.
If you’ve hit one of these automotive abysses, you may need to do a little roadside assessment before continuing your journey. First, check your vehicle’s steering response at slow speeds and listen carefully for any unusual noises. If something crops up, pull over as soon as safely possible into a parking area or a quiet side street. Check the tire that took the hit for any signs of deflation or obvious misalignment such as an abnormal tilt (in or out at the top) or direction difference from the non-impacted side (pointing in or out). Push down on the vehicle over the wheel and release your weight and listen for any unusual noises. Take a look underneath for anything hanging down or otherwise out of place. Check for any fluid leaks. If you’re not comfortable driving to your service provider, get it towed.
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When it comes to the expensive part, there are some options for repair. Alloy wheels, for example, can be very expensive, but there are specialty shops that can repair cracks, straighten bent edges, and return a rim to near-new condition at a fraction of the price of a new one. For older vehicles, you might want to consider a used suspension assembly. Many salvage yards will sell a front strut for example, assembled with its spring, mount, knuckle, and brake unit, affording lower installation fees at your shop in addition to the lower acquisition prices.
Consider steel wheels for winter use and pothole season. They might not look as nice as the alloy rims your vehicle came with from the factory, but they are generally stronger, easier to repair, and much cheaper to replace if they’re damaged beyond repair.
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Think about road-hazard coverage for your tires. Many tire brands offer this protection at a small extra cost, and some throw it in for free — just remember to ask your tire retailer at the time of purchase. When a low-profile 20” or larger-diameter tire can set you back $400 or more, getting some protection makes sense.
Avoid hugging the right shoulder of the road whenever possible. There’s a reason why the right-side vehicle steering joints, suspension components, and tires often wear out faster than their driver’s side counterparts: the right side of the road is often nastier than the left.
Finally, be especially careful driving through water deep enough to conceal the surface of the road from view. You never know what might be lurking beneath calm waters.
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