Troubleshooter: Why brakes must be in top shape for cold-weather driving

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It’s a fact: the braking system on your vehicle is one of its most important safety features. Having the best traction control, the grippiest tires, and most responsive steering won’t do squat to save your hide if the brakes aren’t performing as they should. Automotive braking systems should be inspected twice a year for the average personal vehicle driven less than 30,000 km annually. With the wheels off for a seasonal tire change-over, it’s a pretty easy task and will give you an accurate assessment if any maintenance or relining is required.

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If a shop suggests a seasonal brake servicing and lubrication without the need to replace any pads or rotors, ask what their process is before giving approval. The key weak point in any disc-brake system is the exposure of moving metal parts to the worst of our road environment. In winter this means a heavy salt diet, along with excessive moisture, and in the case of stop and start commuting, high operating temperatures. This causes rust build-up on things like caliper sliders and pins, leading to dragging brakes, accelerated wear, and in the worst cases, seized wheels that won’t budge. It also means reduced performance, something you don’t want when road surfaces are slippery and congested with traffic.

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In order to do their job properly, calipers and pads must be removed from their mounting points for access to the bits that need cleaning and lubrication. Some shops have gone so far as to purchase and install material blaster cabinets that make it easy and quick to remove every speck of rust without damaging any polished surfaces. If your shop has one of these and uses it regularly, you’ll likely have few if any worries about the rest of their work. Some techs will take the time to remove any rust build-up from the edges of the brake rotors. This is pretty much cosmetic, so it’s not a big deal if they ignore it, unless the rust has crept onto the working surface of the rotor. Even there, some minor surface rust is nothing to panic about if a car has been sitting for a week — rotors are bare steel, and that bit of flash rust should wear away with just a few minutes of driving.

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The cost for this type of service will vary depending on vehicle type and shop labour rate. Many shops offer it as a menu special, providing lower than hourly rate-based work. For most mainstream personal-use vehicles, it usually runs between $100 and $150 per axle, or $200-$300 per vehicle. Be prepared to have your service advisor to request a separate appointment if they discover the need during a seasonal tire installation, as most shops are buried in demand during this busy winter-prep season and won’t have time to tackle it on the spot.

Don’t forget to have the fluid level and condition checked. The ups and downs of winter temperatures can add condensation contamination within the reservoir, bringing its own share of problems. And on older rides (say older than 5 or 6 years), it might save some future aggravation if a tech ensures that all the brake unit bleeder screws will turn freely; a necessity if any hydraulic component requires replacement.